master cyl question

[Anthony Binga]

is any liquid suppost to come out of here? like minimal liquid not squirting out...

[Martin Raska]

Theoretically, there should be none, usually there is a slight glisten.  If there is a pool or something you might want to rebuild it or get a new one.

[DarrylDhaliwal]

speaking of master cyl. i have a small problem with mine i think. When i am driving once and a while it will get very hard to get in to gear. I stop and turn off the car and start it up after about 5 minutes and it will be fine again till if want to get hard again. Some times it will come and go. neather my slave or master r leaking. My transmission make a weard klink klink sound.

[Anthony Binga]

you sir... have a ghost :p

[Martin Raska]

Your transmission fluid change intervals up to spec Darryl?

[DarrylDhaliwal]

yah but i put that penzoil shit  in it.

[DarrylDhaliwal]

speaking of master cyl. i have a small problem with mine i think. When i am driving once and a while it will get very hard to get in to gear. I stop and turn off the car and start it up after about 5 minutes and it will be fine again till if want to get hard again. Some times it will come and go. neather my slave or master r leaking. My transmission make a weard klink klink sound.

yah but i put that penzoil shit in it.

Any one now whats might be wrong with my car

[Martin Raska]

It's possible, these transmissions seem to be more picky than some about the fluid.  Did it take as much as you drained? Is it a gl4 or a gl5 fluid (that's a rating you'll be able to find on the bottle).  If it is that syncromesh stuff, I have heard some good things abouts it, but it's not actually gl rated either, but is supposed to be compatible with bronze and brass syncros.  Either way, changing your fluid again and making sure it's taking the full 2.1L or whatever it is is a good first start.

How far off hte ground does your clutch engage?  Is that fluid new?  I would probably start with that.

[mike griffin]

i read somewhere that one of the gl-x's was bad for our synchros... which one is it?

[Graeme Shaw]

Manual transaxle and transfer case:
Whenever the oil level is checked, add the oil to maintain the proper level, if necessary.
Refill or change oil according to the table.

Lubricant: Mopar Hypoid Gear Oil or equivalent, API Classification GL-4

Viscosity range:  SAE 75W-90 or 75W-85W

[DarrylDhaliwal]

I used that penzoil shit (syncromesh shit). I will chance the fluid again ans i think that i will put the redline stuff in and hopfully i don't have much of a problem. When my clutch gets screwerd up i almost don't have to let off the clutch pedal and it will engage. (holding pedal down and then letting it of just a bit and it will engage when screwed up). I can barly put it in gear and when it goes in soem time it will grind.

[Martin Raska]

I used that penzoil shit (syncromesh shit). I will chance the fluid again ans i think that i will put the redline stuff in and hopfully i don't have much of a problem. When my clutch gets screwerd up i almost don't have to let off the clutch pedal and it will engage. (holding pedal down and then letting it of just a bit and it will engage when screwed up). I can barly put it in gear and when it goes in soem time it will grind.

Well fix that problem, it is probably the root. It's easy to bleed and replace the system.

[Artem Goloubov]

I use Redline MTL for tranny and transfer case, I am thinking of trying out Redline Shock proof light weight for T-case and diff next time around.

Going back to original question, you should see no liquid coming from clutch master, if it does the seals are shot. You can rebuild or replace.