Author Topic: t3/t4 should I ever buy it?  (Read 930 times)

Offline Kevin Chan

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t3/t4 should I ever buy it?
« on: January 01, 2005, 05:59:55 pm »
There's one for relativly cheap, and I'm not looking to change it just yet, maybe just buy it and wait for more parts to come... exhaust, injector&regulator&SAFC, then header with external gate.
it's Garrett-style T3/T04E. 0.63 a/r hotside with a Stage 3 wheel, 0.50 a/r coldside with a 57-trim wheel. which I don't have much idea of what the numbers represents yet. :P
Should I buy it?
If I buy it, what else I need?
o___0"
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Offline Jovan Ceklaj

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t3/t4 should I ever buy it?
« Reply #1 on: January 01, 2005, 06:08:34 pm »
How cheap is relatively cheap?  And what do you mean by "Garrett style" turbo?
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Offline Robin Toor

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t3/t4 should I ever buy it?
« Reply #2 on: January 01, 2005, 06:15:25 pm »
If you don't know about it then don't buy it.

If upgrading to a bigger turbo, you should learn about them first, don't just get one because it is a good deal.

Basically a 50 trim is like a 20G, except you have to get a bunch of other crap that you wouldn't need with a 20G (ex. header).

Artem Gridnev

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t3/t4 should I ever buy it?
« Reply #3 on: January 01, 2005, 06:19:38 pm »
thats the turbo i got
"garret style" = no name copy i think
its a rebult turbo
i got same one as he is describing
thing is biiiiig


i was wondering, with it i got a small exhaust manifold (like 1.5 - 2 inch)

my friend said its better cause its a big turbo so it will spool faster cause

the manifold is small and will keep the pressure strong, he said that if i

get one of those windy long ones that are designed to take the heat away

 from the head for my turbo, it will take forever to spool cause the

pressure will be weaker by the time it gets to the turbo wheel.

"Images too big changed by Artem :P"

thats my kit
should be same turbo he speaks of

Offline Kevin Chan

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t3/t4 should I ever buy it?
« Reply #4 on: January 01, 2005, 06:20:03 pm »
200 bux :D  and well, it's a Garrett. I'm just still learning
o___0"
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Offline John Hartman

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t3/t4 should I ever buy it?
« Reply #5 on: January 01, 2005, 08:11:00 pm »
2 hun is cheap if its in good shape.

a 57 trim is a fairly big turbo tho.
91 Eagle Talon TSi 5spd awd.  GT-12, TriFlow Cams, 850s, Tial, JIC, Jackal, sticky rubber.
86 Merkur XR4Ti 5spd, rwd, turbo, 91,381km.  Original paint, heated leather. intercooled, big VAM, Full 3" exhaust, Cossie sway bar, 16" tires.
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Offline Kevin Chan

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t3/t4 should I ever buy it?
« Reply #6 on: January 01, 2005, 08:29:20 pm »
well, new oil seal and compressor wheel needed... so by that, it should still be cheaper than buying a new one right? other than that, there's no shaft play and used under 2k miles...
because I was thinking about to get a 14b installed at first for a minor upgrade, but then, this came up, so I just kinda wanted to see if it's going to be any good...
o___0"
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Offline Robin Toor

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t3/t4 should I ever buy it?
« Reply #7 on: January 01, 2005, 09:32:58 pm »
Quote from: "Artem Gridnev"
i was wondering, with it i got a small exhaust manifold (like 1.5 - 2 inch)

my friend said its better cause its a big turbo so it will spool faster cause

the manifold is small and will keep the pressure strong, he said that if i

get one of those windy long ones that are designed to take the heat away

 from the head for my turbo, it will take forever to spool cause the

pressure will be weaker by the time it gets to the turbo wheel.


Your friend doesn't know what he's talking about. Pressure loss in a pipe is minimal due to friction. Most pressure loss is because of harsh press bent turns in the pipe, and non-equal length runners. Therefore, the exact OPPOSITE of what your friend said is true.

The "windy" long ones have equal length runners and have gradual slow bends so no pressure is lost. Small runners that have harsh angle bends cause much more pressure loss.

A big turbo such as the 50 - 60 trim garretts do not flow efficiently until running above 1 bar of boost (15psi), so what I dont understand is if you are only going to run 10psi of boost, why run a turbo that flows less air at that much pressure compared to an evo 16G? Unless you have supporting mods that let you run 20+psi of boost, running a big turbo will actually SLOW you down.

Offline Jovan Ceklaj

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t3/t4 should I ever buy it?
« Reply #8 on: January 01, 2005, 09:36:32 pm »
Quote from: "Robin Toor"
Most pressure loss is because of harsh press bent turns in the pipe, and non-equal length runners. Therefore, the exact OPPOSITE of what your friend said is true.


Non-equal length runners won't cause a pressure loss, they just have the exhaust pulses out of sync for proper scavenging.  Other than that, you got it :wink:
 1989 Nissan 240sx (daily POS/autocross slut)
- '92 6/4 bolt Tsi AWD 5 spd. (Burned to the ground!)

Offline Kimyee Lai

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t3/t4 should I ever buy it?
« Reply #9 on: January 01, 2005, 10:55:08 pm »
Kevin, it is not cheap to rebuild a turbo.  New compressor wheel etc isn't cheap either, and it'll have to be balanced etc...Talk to Ryan, but you're probably looking at a minimum of $300+ parts. I'd say at the end of the day you'd be looking more money that probably a good condition T3/T4.

Offline Kevin Chan

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t3/t4 should I ever buy it?
« Reply #10 on: January 02, 2005, 12:22:45 am »
so that's why I'm thinking about it for now to see if it's any worth.... or just buy a 14b now, and later upgrade to evo16g or similiar
o___0"
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Artem Gridnev

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t3/t4 should I ever buy it?
« Reply #11 on: January 02, 2005, 01:46:09 am »
Quote
Your friend doesn't know what he's talking about. Pressure loss in a pipe is minimal due to friction. Most pressure loss is because of harsh press bent turns in the pipe, and non-equal length runners. Therefore, the exact OPPOSITE of what your friend said is true.

The "windy" long ones have equal length runners and have gradual slow bends so no pressure is lost. Small runners that have harsh angle bends cause much more pressure loss.

A big turbo such as the 50 - 60 trim garretts do not flow efficiently until running above 1 bar of boost (15psi), so what I dont understand is if you are only going to run 10psi of boost, why run a turbo that flows less air at that much pressure compared to an evo 16G? Unless you have supporting mods that let you run 20+psi of boost, running a big turbo will actually SLOW you down.


iteresting
btw i am doing my motor all out, i was gonna do low psi till i rebuild motor but from what u said i think turbo will wait till i get everything else....btw i found this thing on ebay is it any good? does it give faster spool or something?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33742&item=7944087603&rd=1

Offline Ryan Lore

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t3/t4 should I ever buy it?
« Reply #12 on: January 02, 2005, 01:14:09 pm »
It's impossible to assess the damages until the turbo has been taken apart.

Average t3/t4 with compressor wheel damage costs about 600.00 to fix

Off the shelf brand new is only about 750.00

To buy a used turbo (in general) is a waste of time.
More often then not the repairs that are necessary end up making them more expensive than new.

More than 1/2 of our turbo repairs are "internet deals" that people just can't afford to throw away.

Do yourself a favor, don't buy anything now, save some money and buy something that fits and is exactly what you want the first time around

Offline Robin Toor

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t3/t4 should I ever buy it?
« Reply #13 on: January 02, 2005, 01:38:55 pm »
Quote from: "Artem Gridnev"
iteresting
btw i am doing my motor all out, i was gonna do low psi till i rebuild motor but from what u said i think turbo will wait till i get everything else....btw i found this thing on ebay is it any good? does it give faster spool or something?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33742&item=7944087603&rd=1


That is the exaust housing for the turbo you bought so instead of making a custom header to bolt on to your turbo, you can put on this exaust housing and bolt it onto your existing manifold.

All the rest of the stuff he says about it spooling faster and etc. I think is probably a bunch of crap.

IMO, it's a piece of crap, it'll probably break on you in a week.

Offline Ryan Lore

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t3/t4 should I ever buy it?
« Reply #14 on: January 02, 2005, 05:05:15 pm »
I agree with Robin,

That looks like a Bullseye Stainless housing.

It weighs about 20 pounds

They claim stainless, however it does rust.

The bore centers aren't correct which makes for a low tolerance turbo which hurts spool up.

J-U-N-K