Author Topic: Halo Projectors  (Read 446 times)

Offline Ryan Singh

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Halo Projectors
« on: November 02, 2004, 05:36:19 pm »
Anyone know why these would flicker?

I checked all connections and they seem fine. It's only the driver side that is doing it. I have it hooked up to where my side marker light was connected (2G).

I unhooked it and tested the wires to another bulb and it worked fine. When I put the halo on, it flickers again.

I bought it off of ebay and the guy said to run 36 volts to it. It's from Japan and he won't take it back or exchange it. What the hell should I do? I tried to open the housing, but it's hard to open it without cracking it. Anyone know how to open these?

Do you guuys think the 36volt thing will work, or will it fry it?

Please help.

Thanks
2001 Altezza RS200
1996 TSi AWD - In hibernation

Dan Powers

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Halo Projectors
« Reply #1 on: November 02, 2004, 07:05:27 pm »
I don't even know where to start on that one.

1.  I don't know any lights that require that much voltage.
2.  Why would u need that much voltage for such a small light.
3.  How to build up to 36volts from 12volts?

I'm sorry i'm not helping you in this, but I'm just telling you what I see wrong with it all.  Correct me if I am wrong anybody, but cars are now only just starting to surpass 12V in their electrical systems & its all new wire...  

We need a 12V guru up in here!

Offline Ryan Singh

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Halos
« Reply #2 on: November 02, 2004, 07:51:07 pm »
He told me to bridge 3 batteries together to "break in" the LEDs in the halos, and then try re-connecting them to the car to see if that makes them work.

I didn't think it would be the best idea as car batteries are highly explosive if you screw around with them like that, that's why I asked you guys. The only thing that I can think of is to open up the housing of the headlights and to check the connections on the halos.

The only problem is that after I take the clips off, it's still pretty hard to get them to open and I really don't want to crack them.
2001 Altezza RS200
1996 TSi AWD - In hibernation

Offline Andrew Scott

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« Reply #3 on: November 02, 2004, 09:45:37 pm »
It's bullshit. LEDs have no filiment to break in. The guy is ripping you off, and there is nothing you can do.
Parked: 1989 240sx - Esso 87 octane, Superstore generic 10w30, Japanese automatic climate control, Pioneer AVIC-Z3 navagation, Tien Flex Coilovers, Poly bushings, R34 Brakes (front and rear), Cusco tri-point strut braces (front+rear), 1998 tail lights, rear+side valance, adjustable toe and camber arms, cusco sway bars, helical rear diff, Volk TE37s - For sale!
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Offline Ryan Singh

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« Reply #4 on: November 02, 2004, 10:12:50 pm »
You don't think that there's a way to open up the casing without damaging it?
2001 Altezza RS200
1996 TSi AWD - In hibernation

Offline Martin Raska

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« Reply #5 on: November 02, 2004, 10:29:15 pm »
Quote from: "Andrew Scott"
It's bullshit. LEDs have no filiment to break in. The guy is ripping you off, and there is nothing you can do.


Ditto, LED's typically burn with more than 25mA of current.  Basically anything over about 7volts is guaranteed to burn your typical led.  these things are probably regulated inside the unit.  He will get you to burn the regulator and or some leds and then it is not his fault anymore.
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Offline Andrew Scott

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« Reply #6 on: November 03, 2004, 12:19:52 am »
Heat it up, if it is held with epoxy - 200 deg in the oven, but before you go and destroy your headlights - if you get shipped somthing garbage over ebay, threaten negative feedback. That will change his "no refunds or exchanges" tone. If you paid by credit card, or paypal you are protected as well.
Parked: 1989 240sx - Esso 87 octane, Superstore generic 10w30, Japanese automatic climate control, Pioneer AVIC-Z3 navagation, Tien Flex Coilovers, Poly bushings, R34 Brakes (front and rear), Cusco tri-point strut braces (front+rear), 1998 tail lights, rear+side valance, adjustable toe and camber arms, cusco sway bars, helical rear diff, Volk TE37s - For sale!
Daily: 2008 BMW M3 DCT