HELP! just replaced OEM clutch STIFF!

[Kevin Chan]

ok is it normal? the guy who installed the clutch says it's harder than racing clutch...

[Andrew Steele]

??

You installed a new aftermarket clutch and now it's uber stiff.

What are you asking about?

[Jesse Veitch]

what kind of clutch you got? ...it should be stiffer than stock

[Kevin Chan]

OEM!!! :laugh:

[Andrew Steele]

Same (OE) pressure plate?

It's possible you're runnin low on clutch fuid.

[Aaron Moore]

ok is it normal? the guy who installed the clutch says it's harder than racing clutch...

I need help fast...

What?  Ask Mike Meron what's harder than a racing clutch :wink:

[Leon Hui]

Same (OE) pressure plate?

It's possible you're runnin low on clutch fuid.

Low on fluid or no fluid would mean squishy clutch and the inability to shift in any gear..

[Kevin Chan]

nah, what we think is the clutch master cylinder

OE pressure plate (new)

full and bleeded fuilds...

[Ryan Lore]

The release fork is bent and needs to be replaced.

Instead of levering on the pivot ball, it's levering on the bell housing at a huge mechanical disadvantage.

[Kevin Chan]

but the thing is when we press in the clutch, it feels normal until the lowest part(the stiff part), but if we don't press in all the way, the clutch doesn't disengage... and sometimes it is stuck to the floor...
we're thinking about and replaceing the clutch master as we speak since the slave cylinder moves normal and easily...

[Jesse Veitch]

could be the master, sounds somewhat like it, if it doesn't like to come back out and it's hard at the end, could be brake fluid sneaking by the piston, for your sake, hope that's the prob

[Mike Schmid]

Another thing could be that dumb aluminum sleeve the TO bearing rides on.  On my laser that sleeve was wore right down and had a major groove in it.  I had a SS sleeve machined and put in a nylon lined TO bearing and it made my CFDF softer and smoother than the OEM clutch was that got replaced.

[Matt Feist]

Thats a damn good idea Mike.

[Kevin Chan]

I've tried it today after change of both master and slave cylinders, basically same thing, i can drive it.. not real much of problem, just a little jerky on start...

also, it's really boucy at the last inch which is the stiff part, but I HAVE to press all the way in, which should be normal? to get the clutch to engage(or is it disengage??)

they said the fork is not bent, and on the pivot ball.

they say it might be possible to be my flywheel was machined before, and not machined again... or somthing along the lines of that...

[Ryan Lore]

Jack up the car....

Support with jack stands

have somebody press the clutch all the way to the floor while you're watching. If the  clutch fork hits the bell housing you have found the problem

Some people will shim the pivot ball, unless you're houdini that requires removing the tranny