Author Topic: More EGT discussion  (Read 818 times)

Offline Mike Schmid

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More EGT discussion
« on: January 05, 2004, 07:09:58 pm »
Since Jovan posted a EGT thing in the Specs/techs section I thought I'd throw in some more thoughts...

I still haven't installed my EGT because I'm unsure of where to put it... tradition has it it should be as close to the head on the #1 runner as possible.  This is all fine and good but won't that setup see 1700*C?  What I want is experienced people to give some data on this.  I've got the Autometer EGT and the scale tops out at 1600* so what's the point in putting it in the hottest area that sees 1700*??

I don't really expect anyone to know because I know no one's experimented and blown engines up enough to know for sure but what I want is to install someplace where say 1600 or 1550 * is my high end danger point but I still have rapid response.  Maybe use a colder cylinder?  or just tune conservatively so the max EGT I ever see is 1600 in runner #1?  But then I won't make max power, which is bad.  

Or should I take out a loan, buy the AEM EMS and put a probe in each cylinder?  haha, I am looking for some serious answers though.
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Offline Andrew Scott

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Re: More EGT discussion
« Reply #1 on: January 06, 2004, 01:20:42 am »
Quote from: "Mike Schmid"
Since Jovan posted a EGT thing in the Specs/techs section I thought I'd throw in some more thoughts...

I still haven't installed my EGT because I'm unsure of where to put it... tradition has it it should be as close to the head on the #1 runner as possible.  This is all fine and good but won't that setup see 1700*C?  What I want is experienced people to give some data on this.  I've got the Autometer EGT and the scale tops out at 1600* so what's the point in putting it in the hottest area that sees 1700*??


Becuse the greddy EGT gauge, which was designed for turbo motors sees up to 2100*
Parked: 1989 240sx - Esso 87 octane, Superstore generic 10w30, Japanese automatic climate control, Pioneer AVIC-Z3 navagation, Tien Flex Coilovers, Poly bushings, R34 Brakes (front and rear), Cusco tri-point strut braces (front+rear), 1998 tail lights, rear+side valance, adjustable toe and camber arms, cusco sway bars, helical rear diff, Volk TE37s - For sale!
Daily: 2008 BMW M3 DCT

Troy Simkus

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More EGT discussion
« Reply #2 on: January 06, 2004, 04:28:36 am »
put it where the gauge will read in a useable range. You'll never be able to compare egts with a standard, so just use it as a comparison between your setups.  Tune for knock, egt is just another symptom diagnoser.  

*caution, no real experience behind that post, just regurgitated bench tuning-info.

Offline Mike Schmid

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More EGT discussion
« Reply #3 on: January 06, 2004, 09:34:53 am »
Well I was talking with Jovan and searching google last night and I think what I'll do is put it midway in #1 or #2 and try and keep the EGTs below 1600, somewhere near 1550 max.  If it gets hotter than that I'll pull the probe and move it down-runner.
DSMs - fun when they run

'92 TSi AWD AT - 180bhp
'93 TSi AWD - 195bhp
'90 Laser RS NT - *sold*
'71 Camaro - *sold*

Offline Travis Merrick

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« Reply #4 on: January 06, 2004, 10:11:10 am »
I am putting mine about 1 1/2" down from the turbo on the downpipe, this way it will read cooler, and I can just add 150 degrees to it.  I was reading a post on dsmtuners from a guy that explained it really well.  And remember what happens if you run lean in one cylinder for a few quick seconds, you may have time to shut the car down before doing any engine damage.  Down below you will be able to tell if something is happening by a movement in the temp, you will know where your car sits at temp on a regular basis if you drive it lots.

Hope that made sense, cause I feel outta my mind this morning. SNOW!
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Offline Kevin Standeven

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« Reply #5 on: January 06, 2004, 10:56:08 am »
with the autometer guage, I think putting it in the DP would be a good idea. I know mine's fairly far back in the #1 runner, and it sees over 1600 just cruising on the highway.
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Offline Andrew Scott

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« Reply #6 on: January 06, 2004, 05:08:10 pm »
When tuning with the EGT simply install it, and remember what EGTs you run with your current, good setup. Take note of your WOT temperatures, crusing temperatures, etc, and then compaire to those when you make changes. Try to keep your temperatures around the ones you've already determined work good.
Parked: 1989 240sx - Esso 87 octane, Superstore generic 10w30, Japanese automatic climate control, Pioneer AVIC-Z3 navagation, Tien Flex Coilovers, Poly bushings, R34 Brakes (front and rear), Cusco tri-point strut braces (front+rear), 1998 tail lights, rear+side valance, adjustable toe and camber arms, cusco sway bars, helical rear diff, Volk TE37s - For sale!
Daily: 2008 BMW M3 DCT

Offline John Hartman

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« Reply #7 on: January 06, 2004, 05:34:11 pm »
Providing your baseline is indeed good, Andrews method sounds most logical..
91 Eagle Talon TSi 5spd awd.  GT-12, TriFlow Cams, 850s, Tial, JIC, Jackal, sticky rubber.
86 Merkur XR4Ti 5spd, rwd, turbo, 91,381km.  Original paint, heated leather. intercooled, big VAM, Full 3" exhaust, Cossie sway bar, 16" tires.
06 Mazdaspeed6 6spd awd, DISI turbo, heated leather HIDs, Corksport, Cobb, Konig, Centric...
2018 VW Golf Alltrack turbo Tornado Red, 6mt, some free mods

Offline Chris Andrews

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« Reply #8 on: January 06, 2004, 06:13:05 pm »
Quote from: "Troy Simkus"
Tune for knock, egt is just another symptom diagnoser.  


That about sums it up........ :agreed:
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Offline Mike Schmid

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« Reply #9 on: January 06, 2004, 06:43:14 pm »
I'm not going to tune for EGT, I'll tune for knock, but I just don't want to stick the probe where it's off the scale all the time.  Because I will be using it as a danger monitor more than anything.
DSMs - fun when they run

'92 TSi AWD AT - 180bhp
'93 TSi AWD - 195bhp
'90 Laser RS NT - *sold*
'71 Camaro - *sold*

Offline Gabriel Shim

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« Reply #10 on: January 18, 2004, 09:58:05 pm »
I recently grounded my engine bay with 4 gauge wires and I did notice that my EGT decreased by at least 500 degrees F.  Can anyone else confirm?
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Troy Simkus

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« Reply #11 on: January 19, 2004, 01:30:57 am »
500 seems like alot, maybe your gauge wasnt grounding right and not reading accurately?

Offline Jacky Ng

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« Reply #12 on: January 19, 2004, 01:36:03 am »
Got a stupid question here.
When you install the EGT probe, you drill a hole in the exhuast manifold, right?
If you decided to remove the gauge and probe, there will be a hole needed to be patched/welded (or whatever is the correct term of filling in the hole)?
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Offline Travis Merrick

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« Reply #13 on: January 19, 2004, 05:17:27 am »
Yah you drill a hole and tap it, now im not sure if you can do the exh. mani on the car because of the turbo is below it and the metal shavings may damage it, im not 100% sure, maybe if you use a vaccum while drilling.  But the DP is fine as the stuff should just blow through if you dont run a cat.

And yes there would be a hole that needed to be patched up, thats the price your willing to make when you start modifying the car.
2 TSi AWD - 14.2@98mph - RIP

85 SJ413 w/ Toy axles

Offline John Hartman

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More EGT discussion
« Reply #14 on: January 19, 2004, 05:29:00 pm »
Travis, lots of people put the probe in the runner upstream of the turbo.  Trick is to do it while the car is running and go JUST thru.  The pressure of the exhaust is theoretically supposed to push the shavings out.  Theoretically.  Someone thats done a few will tell you yay or nay on that.
91 Eagle Talon TSi 5spd awd.  GT-12, TriFlow Cams, 850s, Tial, JIC, Jackal, sticky rubber.
86 Merkur XR4Ti 5spd, rwd, turbo, 91,381km.  Original paint, heated leather. intercooled, big VAM, Full 3" exhaust, Cossie sway bar, 16" tires.
06 Mazdaspeed6 6spd awd, DISI turbo, heated leather HIDs, Corksport, Cobb, Konig, Centric...
2018 VW Golf Alltrack turbo Tornado Red, 6mt, some free mods