replacing brake pads, rotors should be done at same time?

[marQ_deLa_cruz]

seems like it's time to replace my brake pads, wondering if rotors should be done as well?

also, torque wrench required or i can go without it if i decide to do it myself?

tia
mark

[Jason Harwood]

You shouldnt need a torque wrench to do your brakes.

If the rotors are good, you can just use new pad's.

If the rotors are warped, then change them or have them turned.

But in my experience, most rotors are cheap enough that theyre worth replacing over having turned.

[Brett Haviland]

Being a mechanic I will recommend how to do a brake job the RIGHT way.

You can re-use the rotors, but it is recommended to check their thickness to make sure there is enough rotor left to be "safe".  Also if there is enough material left, you should have the rotors machined so your new pads have a flat and true surface to ride on. usually you need to be around .040-.050" left before "minimum thickness" to machine the rotors.  Also, after the rotors are machined, you want at least .020 above min thickness to allow for wear of the rotor and so that over the pads/rotors life, the rotors still stay above minimum thickness the whole time.  


Other things to  note is the caliper slides should be serviced and lubricated, and caliper pistons/seals inspected for tears or any signs of rust/leakage.

it is important to make sure all the bolts are tight and don't fall off the vehicle.  I would recommend torqueing the wheels at least, (*but everyone knows you can just make the FT(fuckin tight) and ur good to go, just don't OVER tighten them with a big bar or something


if your worried I can always come and give u a hand!

[Bennji Favelle]

I partially agree with that, but being a "racer" if your old rotors have grooves in them from shitty wear, as long as they are not warped with hot spots it actually creates MORE surface area on your pads, once your pads wear down to the same groves, although you do burn through pads faster, technically there is more surface on surface contact, and you will stop better.

People may disagree with me on that, and I have no internet at home right now, cause I just bought and moved into a new condo, so here is a quick summary of logic.

a W has more contact surface area available than a _

But if there are hot spots, or the rotor is warped, replace right away.

[Kevin Altoe]

I partially agree with that, but being a "racer" if your old rotors have grooves in them from shitty wear, as long as they are not warped with hot spots it actually creates MORE surface area on your pads, once your pads wear down to the same groves, although you do burn through pads faster, technically there is more surface on surface contact, and you will stop better.

People may disagree with me on that, and I have no internet at home right now, cause I just bought and moved into a new condo, so here is a quick summary of logic.

a W has more contact surface area available than a _

But if there are hot spots, or the rotor is warped, replace right away.

I'll have to disagree with you Bennji as the grooves will create high spots creating uneven distribution of the force when the pad contacts the rotor.  This creating a concentrated contact point on the pad and rotor creating more heat which reduces the coefficient of friction of the material in the pad.  With the new rotor the pad will contact flush against it having a more even contact area increasing heat dissipation.  Friction is not directly proportion to area, that's why big brakes work on the principal of have more heat dissipation and the ability the distribute force across the brake pad more evenly.  If you want to stop better you want more heat dissipation or better pad material.

Just my two cent, I would change them out if there getting to be close to the minimum limit and can't be turned properly.  Rotors are cheap unless you are looking for something performance orientated such as slotted rotors.

[marQ_deLa_cruz]

thanks for all the help fellas. yeah i'll do the rotors at the same time.

thanks for the offer Brett, i'll give you a shout if in case i feel the help is needed.

[CamWeiss]

I partially agree with that, but being a "racer" if your old rotors have grooves in them from shitty wear, as long as they are not warped with hot spots it actually creates MORE surface area on your pads, once your pads wear down to the same groves, although you do burn through pads faster, technically there is more surface on surface contact, and you will stop better.

People may disagree with me on that, and I have no internet at home right now, cause I just bought and moved into a new condo, so here is a quick summary of logic.

a W has more contact surface area available than a _

But if there are hot spots, or the rotor is warped, replace right away.

No.

In addition to what Kevin said, you're more likely to glaze your pads by putting them on rotors that haven't been resurfaced - Both because the "W"s create hot spots and because the rotor is already effectively polished.

Secondly, a thinner used rotor has less mass than a new full dimension one. It will be a poorer heat sink as there's less material to absorb and dissipate heat.

Third, what are the chances your used rotor has corrosion on the vanes? Think that might negatively affect airflow through the vanes and lessen heat dissipation?

There is no performance advantage to re-using rotors. Your pocketbook may make an effective case to do so (and in some cases a simple pad slap is acceptable) but purely from a performance standpoint I can't think of a reason to do so.

[Eddie ly]

I got a pair of slotted stock size replacement rotor, slightly used, very slightly used, if you want.

[Graeme H Burvill]

I would recommend always torquing your wheels, i know a lot of us have gotten away with just doing them tight. But if you are constantly over tightening your nuts you will eventually or quickly stretch your fasteners out, which can cause you more problems than just coming loose. Also apparently its frowned upon if your wheel falls off at 100km/h and kills someone...Did you know the wheel torque on sti's (probably others as well) is so low to accomodate the expasion of their giant brake systems. Food for thought, wheel torque is engineered around the needs of your vehicle.

[marQ_deLa_cruz]

considering picking up eddie's slotted rotors, but they're only fronts...if i go slotted rotors front and just regular rear rotors, is that ok or is it something that is not advisable to do?

[kevin derhouson]

perfectly fine.

[Ivan Skare]

It's BEST to replace rotors and pads at the same time for optimal braking and that is that.

[GlenMartin]

Being a mechanic I will recommend how to do a brake job the RIGHT way.

You can re-use the rotors, but it is recommended to check their thickness to make sure there is enough rotor left to be "safe".  Also if there is enough material left, you should have the rotors machined so your new pads have a flat and true surface to ride on. usually you need to be around .040-.050" left before "minimum thickness" to machine the rotors.  Also, after the rotors are machined, you want at least .020 above min thickness to allow for wear of the rotor and so that over the pads/rotors life, the rotors still stay above minimum thickness the whole time.  


Other things to  note is the caliper slides should be serviced and lubricated, and caliper pistons/seals inspected for tears or any signs of rust/leakage.

it is important to make sure all the bolts are tight and don't fall off the vehicle.  I would recommend torqueing the wheels at least, (*but everyone knows you can just make the FT(fuckin tight) and ur good to go, just don't OVER tighten them with a big bar or something


if your worried I can always come and give u a hand!

not to thread jack, but i was thinking of taking my rotors off and turning them, however finding the minimum thickness of the rotors?

[Graeme H Burvill]

Alldata

[CamWeiss]

If you have a factory manual it should be in there as well.