Author Topic: rod bearing  (Read 1761 times)

Offline Travis Ball

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rod bearing
« on: February 05, 2014, 03:19:49 pm »
stuck on 64th. Just spun a rod bearing.  fml. In school zero income soo fucked...

Offline Travis Ball

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Re: rod bearing
« Reply #1 on: February 05, 2014, 03:35:16 pm »
Also I had troubles looking for an engine in auto wreckers.  where is best place to get one

Offline kevin derhouson

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Re: rod bearing
« Reply #2 on: February 05, 2014, 07:19:21 pm »
« Last Edit: February 05, 2014, 07:24:42 pm by kevin derhouson »
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Offline Ryan Singh

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Re: rod bearing
« Reply #3 on: February 05, 2014, 07:29:24 pm »
I don't know how much I'll be able to help you out but I'm probably going to have a bunch of spare parts (6 and 7 bolt) left over from my build; they're yours for free if that helps...do you know the complete extent of the damage?

And yeah...what Kevin said mang.  :(
« Last Edit: February 05, 2014, 07:34:02 pm by Ryan Singh »
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Offline Dennis Sanjenko

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Re: rod bearing
« Reply #4 on: February 05, 2014, 07:50:22 pm »
Complete 6 bolt from a 91tsi with 142,000kms on it at dharneys auto salvage in Langley for $500

Offline Travis Ball

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Re: rod bearing
« Reply #5 on: February 05, 2014, 11:40:37 pm »
If i can get away with just replacing rod bearings
That would be great. I will bust out the micrometer
And check the crank soon.
« Last Edit: February 05, 2014, 11:46:06 pm by Travis Ball »

Offline Travis Ball

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Re: rod bearing
« Reply #6 on: February 06, 2014, 12:04:14 pm »
Okay so a friend of mine is willing to give me a deal on his car..
Think i could get 500 for my talon?

Offline kevin derhouson

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Re: rod bearing
« Reply #7 on: February 06, 2014, 02:01:45 pm »
probably on a part out.
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Offline Travis Ball

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Re: rod bearing
« Reply #8 on: February 09, 2014, 01:30:18 am »
so the intermittent car has been purchased and the rod bearings are out of the engine

the bearing on the pulley side of the engine was completely destroyed.

the rest show some wear but not bad.

« Last Edit: February 09, 2014, 01:33:56 am by Travis Ball »

Offline Travis Koch

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Re: rod bearing
« Reply #9 on: February 09, 2014, 09:42:37 am »
crazy shit.  Funny how one can look so bad and the others so clean.   :-\
Well, if the crank specs are still good, a new set of bearings and your off to the races. 
Current projects:  1992 Laser RS AWD - daily summer
                           1995 Talon Tsi AWD - daily winter
                           1989 2000GTX FWD - not sure where this is going yet
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Offline Travis Ball

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Re: rod bearing
« Reply #10 on: February 09, 2014, 01:28:48 pm »
Well that was my original plan. But there must be a reason.  maybe oullies to tight? Shitty harmonic balancer?  do we have any expiernced engine builders on here?

Offline Brett Haviland

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Re: rod bearing
« Reply #11 on: February 10, 2014, 05:57:42 pm »
You have to use a micrometer or vernier caliper and measure the size of each rod journal. To do this u need to be able to measure to a tenth of a thousandth of a inch (very small increments). You need them all to be very close to each other. Looking at that one bearing from cylinder #1 my guess is that rod journal is out of spec from all the metal on metal contact.  If everything specs out ok, and there is a smooth surface on the journals (you shouldn't be able to feel any scratches the crank would have to be polished, or the quick way is to use crocus cloth and polish it with the crank in the car.   From there you would install the new bearings and make sure to plastigauge everything and make sure the clearances are .002 or less (usually 1.5-1.7 thou is optimal clearance.   Even then you still have to figure out why the bearing failed in the first place, be a bent rod, bent/damaged crank, or a faulty bearing. When u tighten down each rod end caps for the last time make sure to turn the engine over a full turn and verify everything spins nicely without binding up.

Also remember that if u spun the beaing, it can keep oil from getting to the wrist pin and cause damage up there as well to the surfaces too.
« Last Edit: February 10, 2014, 06:06:43 pm by Brett Haviland »
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Offline Travis Ball

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Re: rod bearing
« Reply #12 on: February 10, 2014, 10:17:11 pm »
Very helpful thank you. I will measure the rod journal tmr. as to why the the bearing went in the first place.. this is where I am at a huge loss. the only real evidence I have to go on is... its the belt side of the engine.. which could be irrelevant. Is it possible to pull the crank out whiles the engine is in the car? I am assuming no but Ive had no time to look at it.
I've been working on how to use a lab scope all weekend. shits amazing

Offline daniel Dee

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Re: rod bearing
« Reply #13 on: February 11, 2014, 02:08:08 am »
take out the transmission, remove flywheel.... Disconnect timing belt ,,remove lower timing cover.
What are your future plans with the motor?
92 AWD TSI 5spd<br />Built motor ,AEM EMS, Arc2 cdi 1050cc&1000cc Staged injectors Billet S366 T4,top mount manifold.666 AWHP@39psi (RG Dyno 2010). New mods E85, BF cams, 72mm turbo, 70mm throttle body />90 TSI (gone), 95 TSI 5 spd sold, 93 Mazda 5sp(sold), 97 Acura 5spd Vtec 99 Audi A4 quad 5sp 2018 Civicturbo 6sp ktuner

Offline Brett Haviland

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Re: rod bearing
« Reply #14 on: February 11, 2014, 01:47:19 pm »
take out the transmission, remove flywheel.... Disconnect timing belt ,,remove lower timing cover.
What are your future plans with the motor?


also remember that the whole front cover/oil pump including balance shaft will have to come out as well.  also the rear main seal retainer plate will have to be removed.


much easier to pull the complete engine, put it on a engine stand, flip it upside down and go from there.  trust me on that one.
I like Colts.  Turbo Colts.