cooling issues....

[Jason Swan]

You either have a leak  or your fan isnt moving enough air.  Are you sure its being triggered correctly? Is the shroud on your fan still good?

never been any coolant under the car.  shroud on fan has been sealed with aluminum tape. 

[Marke Bailey]

maybe the temp sensor or sending unit is going bad?

[kevin derhouson]

side note: i wonder how many peoples have oil cooling issues and never really know it, especially people running large fmics.

[Brett Haviland]

yeah, not too many people are running oil temp on these cars...... its one of the most important things to engine longevity!!

i run the 1990 style air/air coolers on my 93 colt 4g63t, my evo, and all my talons i have had as well

[daniel Dee]

I run two pusher fans period......Only a head gasket leak can make my coolant overflow.
I do notice one fan is not enough.

I had have this built stroker setup for three years so it works..

[kevin derhouson]

yeah, not too many people are running oil temp on these cars...... its one of the most important things to engine longevity!!

i run the 1990 style air/air coolers on my 93 colt 4g63t, my evo, and all my talons i have had as well

stupid 7 bolt water oil coolers don't work very well :|


just picked up an e3 oil filter housing and b&m 8an kit from extremepsi so i can start running my car a little harder.

[Robert Vorley]

I am happy with my b&m oil cooler.  I would recommend it if you keep the revs high or do hill climbs. Although making efficiency improvements, such as ducting, shrouds, or better rad/intercooler can bring enough benefit on their own to make it unnecessary except in special cases.

I deleted my a/c since the condenser really restricts flow once you add the fmic, plus it reduces front end weight in front of the axles which improves turn in.

Two fans are the way to go, although the factory 2g was pretty good until it started melting from the  heat off my tubular manifold.

[kevin derhouson]

oil temps are really something i've kept my eye on since purchasing my talon, i've watched how different mods to the car have altered them..

my condensors gone, all the ac bits are gone.. but with the 3.5 thick fmic core (even with the smaller greddy core my oil temps got fairly high), and the big aluminum rad in the way with factory shroud (not to mention that all these super heat dissipating bits may actually compound the problem.. in theory they're transferring more heat to ambient), and 1 aftermarket higher cfm fan (1200cfm just to help move air along) in the ac fan spot there just really isn't enough air flow through my engine bay..

oil temps for me are really the only problem and they are quite high.. luckily i don't drive my car very far.. but if i were to drive my car like i should my oil temps would spike..

even half assing it up to the hope slide at a gentle 120kmh cruise without much throttle i hit 250F coming out of the head.. ( i only run RP, checked the oil after the FVT.. i've never seen oil degradation from heat before, but my common sense and research is telling me that it would feel or look different than normal.. and it didn't thankfully). http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/989/fluid-degradation-causes

i'm confident though that this B&M setup will cure this though

my only concern is that with the air cool setup that the oil will take longer to warm up.. but i suppose thats part of the reason why its better to run synthetics, as they were invented for cold climate protection and startups higher heat handling characteristics are also helpful with this situation.

everyone that modifies their dsm really should have an oil temp gauge though :p

sorry for the partial derail jason, but this may very well be effecting you as well.

[John Hartman]

not a bad idea.

Where are you guys putting your temp probe? 

[kevin derhouson]

depending on whether your turbos fed from the head or filter housing.. think the probe will fit easily in either location.

[Brett Haviland]

well if you are running the stock donut  91+ water/ oil cooler and your coolant temps are staying consistant, then its that crappy cooler's small surface area not being able to keep up with the higher oil temps that are common with higher boost, i wouldnt really think that the radiator or a/c condenser would have much to do with oil temps, as long as your coolant temps are staying consistant in the normal range..   Not really sure how much better the 1990 air/oil cooler really is then the 91+ one... but id be interested to see how much difference the 1990 (air/oil) cooler would make over the 92+|(water/oil)..  i would imagine going to custom AN lines and a larger core cooler would be the best option... its too bad that the 7 bolt doesn't have a option for stock air/oil cooler ports...  (besides the evo 1-3 housing)  the aftemarket bm sandwich adapter or a hks one or something like that seems like the best option...  coupled with custom lines/fittings and a large core positioned in its own airflow in the corner bumper air inlets would be my choice!

[kevin derhouson]

going to a larger thicker FMIC had a huge impact on my average oil temps.. for cruise and boost.

[Lowell Foo]

Ditch the oil/water heat exchanger, it just dumps more heat into an already overstressed cooling system.  90 OFH, biggest and best core you can afford.  My cruising oil temps sit around 90C.

For the radiator, you need 2 fans with a FMIC.  And not those piece of crap skinny things that pull 6 amps. 

[Robert Vorley]

i've never seen oil degradation from heat before, but my common sense and research is telling me that it would feel or look different than normal.. and it didn't thankfully). http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/989/fluid-degradation-causes

I always get RG to do a Nuclear Magnetic Resonance Spectroscopy (NMR) to ensure my oil degradation is from natural causes.   

i wouldnt really think that the radiator or a/c condenser would have much to do with oil temps, as long as your coolant temps are staying consistant in the normal range..   

If the oils heat load is excessive, it will negatively impact your cooling systems total capacity.  The cooling system may be keeping up with rejecting the heat but that just means your system has to work harder than it should.  Making improvements in efficiency effectively increases that capacity, such as using a copper rad, or better rad design or improving air flow to avoid hot spots....     

[Allen fong]

[quote author=kevin derhouson link=topic=27268.msg239890#msg239890 date=

my only concern is that with the air cool setup that the oil will take longer to warm up.. but i suppose thats part of the reason why its better to run synthetics, as they were invented for cold climate protection and startups higher heat handling characteristics are also helpful with this situation.
[/quote]

My brother runs a inline temp valve that opens at 80C approx. not sure if it cycles or stays open! Anyways it works well in Alberta! No problem starting in -30 and warming up.