Running rich?

[Rob Armstrong]

Won't be time consuming. 20 min probably.
It will take you longer to get the parts.

[Alex Pakhotin]

Are there seals in the manifold, plus O-ring seals on the injectors themselves?

Are these all I need?

[Rob Armstrong]

Yuuuup

[Alex Pakhotin]

Thank you guys!

Sounds like it's a pretty common leaking spot.

[John Hartman]

its pretty easy really for someone who has done some work on cars, but if you are not even sure what the part is, I imagine its gonna be a little tricky for you. 

Just take your time, be patient and work carefully and keep things clean.

and yes, replace it all.

Oh and don't loose the black plastic spacers that fit between the fuel rail and manifold. 

[Alex Pakhotin]

its pretty easy really for someone who has done some work on cars, but if you are not even sure what the part is, I imagine its gonna be a little tricky for you.

Well, I'm sure I can do this, as already did some things before - but as I don't work with cars on a daily basis (prefer computers ), all this work usually takes longer for me. I don't even have a garage where I could do this stuff. So usually I spend that time simply doing my job and just pay to someone who has the facilities and proper expertise.

Just take your time, be patient and work carefully and keep things clean.

Yeah, seems straightforward. Maybe I'll do it myself if will have time - just for fun, and to learn something new.

Oh and don't loose the black plastic spacers that fit between the fuel rail and manifold.

Yep, have already read this warning.

[Alex Pakhotin]

It will take you longer to get the parts.

You were right - 4 days wait, and $47+tax at Mitsubishi dealer. Napa has some injector service kits, which also include a gaskets and something else, so it also comes to $47+ for the set. Not sure if I need those.
Ordered from ExtremePSI - hope I'll be able to pick them up in Pt.Roberts together with another package.

[Alex Pakhotin]

its pretty easy really for someone who has done some work on cars, but if you are not even sure what the part is, I imagine its gonna be a little tricky for you. 
Just take your time, be patient and work carefully and keep things clean.

OK, took me a bit longer than 20 minutes - a couple hours all together. But it wasn't that difficult.
Those rubber lower seals were really useless - they turned into hard plastic, and of course couldn't hold pressure. I haven't done another leak test yet, but now it looks like the boost holds better - jumps to around 12-13 (I removed the MBC for now, so it's stock boost) and stays there. AFAIR previously it jumped up and then gradually dropped. Well, the graph reflected that.

[John Hartman]

good job!

now, put the mbc back in and just turn it down to where you want it.  With a ball/spring mbc, your boost comes on more solidly and quickly.  With just a bleed in there, or just a hose from the boost to the wastegate actuator, the wastegate can start to open early, making it seem like your car is lazy and tired.  the mbc won't let any pressure onto the actuator diaphragm until it actually opens.