Surging Idle

[Brett Haviland]

yeah the one with the holes is the one you want to use if you still plan on having your IAC funtional.  The other one will just block off everything (FIAV and IAC)....  for a daily driver you definalty want to keep your IAC functional.

[Greg Durban]

Where do people usually bypass the lines to?
I was trying to even find the lines being looped or tied, but wasn't having luck seeing anything.

The lines usually don't "bypass" they just use a different rubber line off the thermostat housing to the "heater core feed" I believe it is??, So if your looking at it you should just see two open ports on the throttle body (unless 2g's are different) and nothing else out of the ordinary.

[BrandonDouglas]

Where do people usually bypass the lines to?
I was trying to even find the lines being looped or tied, but wasn't having luck seeing anything.

The lines usually don't "bypass" they just use a different rubber line off the thermostat housing to the "heater core feed" I believe it is??, So if your looking at it you should just see two open ports on the throttle body (unless 2g's are different) and nothing else out of the ordinary.

Yes, I see 2 open ports, but I'm curious as where the old lines went.

[Greg Durban]

On my 1g all it was was a different hose coming off the thermostat housing nipple that bent up and towards one of the open ports and then there is another different shaped hose that goes from the other port back down to the heater core pipe nipple. So as I was saying if you look at it it will just look like two open ports because they just used a different hose off the thermostat housing and went straight to the heater core pipe (i.e. "bypassed" the FIAV).

[BrandonDouglas]

On my 1g all it was was a different hose coming off the thermostat housing nipple that bent up and towards one of the open ports and then there is another different shaped hose that goes from the other port back down to the heater core pipe nipple. So as I was saying if you look at it it will just look like two open ports because they just used a different hose off the thermostat housing and went straight to the heater core pipe (i.e. "bypassed" the FIAV).

Ok.

I just ordered that Ebay FIAV bypass plate from Level Zero Motorsports.

Will I need to order this:
https://www.rtmracing.com/xcart/product.php?productid=16334&cat=0&page=1

Or does the plate go in its place or will the gasket already there most likely be fine OR will the Ebay plate come with a new gasket?
Sorry for the million questions everyone.

[BrandonDouglas]

Also do those 2 coolant ports on the bottom of the TB need to be blocked off? They are currently open.

[andrew volcz]

its unlikely the ebay plate came with the seal - its an expensive mitsu specific gasket.  you can try to reuse your but you can always order one to be safe.  to my understanding the tb coolant ports can be left open (?) from google-ing it quickly

[Jordan Kruger]

the coolant ports can stay open.  its no biggy.     they have a seperate journal that doesnt interfere with airflow. Unless of course the gasket between the coolant ports and the TB is ripped. Then it can leak.     Im currently using the blockoff plate that covers the whole bottom of the TB, because I dont use an ISC or water ports.  There are some versions of the blockoff plate that leave the water passages open to air for a bit of air cooling.

[BrandonDouglas]

the coolant ports can stay open.  its no biggy.     they have a seperate journal that doesnt interfere with airflow. Unless of course the gasket between the coolant ports and the TB is ripped. Then it can leak.     Im currently using the blockoff plate that covers the whole bottom of the TB, because I dont use an ISC or water ports.  There are some versions of the blockoff plate that leave the water passages open to air for a bit of air cooling.

Is there any other gaskets I should replace while I am in there putting the bypass plate in? I'm gonna order the FIAV gasket.

[BrandonDouglas]

Also I received my blacktop CAS in the mail today from Richard, to replace my greentop.

When I go to install my CAS I have 2 questions:

1) After install the blacktop CAS and I want to set the base timing to 5 degrees, do I follow this same procedure? 2G ECU with a 6 bolt motor, wasn't sure if anything was different regarding the alligator clips, etc.
Also I only set the timing with the clip attached to spark plug one?

Link:http://www.plymouthlaser.com/timin.htm

2) Before I set the timing I have to make sure the BISS is set properly, do I follow the 1G or 2G biss adjustment on the vfaq? Again, not sure if its to do with the 1g motor or 2g ecu?

[BrandonDouglas]

Anyone?

[BrandonDouglas]

you can do all the things you want in the world....  but if you dont make sure the idle switch in your 4 pin 2g TPS isnt set correctly then ur going to be chasing it around forever, yes it is possible your IAC is fucked, or maybe the FAIV is screwed too... but checking your stock switch only requires getting a feeler gauge and removing the TPS connector to test/set the TPS/idle switch

And no, you dont use a logger to set the idle switch on a 2G.  You use a DVOM and feeler gauge.

heres a quote from dsm forums

2G's critical adjustment is the Idle Position Switch that's part of the TPS.
The manual has you place a 0.0177" (0.45mm) feeler guage between the stop screw and the throttle pulley to open the butterfly and then adjust the TPS right to where the IPS (pins 3 and 4) switches from closed to open. Then they have you verify that the TPS (pin 2 and 4) reads between .4 and 1V while the feeler guage is still in place.
Anything in that range is ok as long as the IPS is adjusted correctly.
There is no way to adjust the TPS voltage independantly of the IPS on a 2G that I can see.

So a friend and I adjusted the TPS today, we set the proper resistance from pin 3 and 4, but at that number with the feeler gauge in, the multimeter was reading 5. Anyways we ended up leaving it and it seems to run fine. Any reason why we were seeing 5V?

Next week I will be setting my BISS once my BISS, o-ring and cap arrive in the mail. If anyone can answer my question #2 a few posts above that would help.

[Brett Haviland]

ur looking at the wrong wire then i think.  One wire will always have a 5v signal going to it.  the TPS then modifies this voltage to anywhere from arouind .5v (closed) to around 4.9 volts OPEN.


and when your using the feeler gauge and a DVOM to set the idle stop switch... you shouldt really be setting it to a certain resistance... you are just finding the place where it goes from having continuity to not having continuity.. (from open circuit to closed)... then you check the TPS Sig. Return (not V. ref)wire to check that the voltage is somewhere between .4-.7 volts.

[BrandonDouglas]

ur looking at the wrong wire then i think.  One wire will always have a 5v signal going to it.  the TPS then modifies this voltage to anywhere from arouind .5v (closed) to around 4.9 volts OPEN.


and when your using the feeler gauge and a DVOM to set the idle stop switch... you shouldt really be setting it to a certain resistance... you are just finding the place where it goes from having continuity to not having continuity.. (from open circuit to closed)... then you check the TPS Sig. Return (not V. ref)wire to check that the voltage is somewhere between .4-.7 volts.

By "setting" it I mean once we got that infinite number we would check the TPS and it would still say 5V

[Brett Haviland]

are you sure you checked the right wire?  were you using wiring diagrams?? maybe you read them backwards or something.  Check the other wires and you should find one with around .4-.7 volts with the throttle closed.  that will be your tps signal wire...  Unless that wire is shorted to the 5v refrence voltage... but if that happend im sure a CEL would come on...