Shim kit for lifters in a 1g.

[Jordan Kruger]

With the cams Im running it is necessary to shim the lifters so there is  between .015" - .035" from rocker to the cam. Anyone know of any solutions? Is there a shim kit existent? or do i have to play with washers ?   Ive determined this is the problem with why a couple of my lifters tick heavily. 

[Dan Harshey]

With the cams Im running it is necessary to shim the lifters so there is  between .015" - .035" from rocker to the cam. Anyone know of any solutions? Is there a shim kit existent? or do i have to play with washers ?   Ive determined this is the problem with why a couple of my lifters tick heavily. 

you shouldn't have to shim them, they are hydraulic lifters, in a sense self adjusting.  Do you know if you have the upgraded 3G lifters?  I upgraded mine and have had no ticking since.

[Shawn Silva]

He probably has regrinds that has taken that off the base circle in order to make up for it in lift.  I am thinking the rocker ratio is going to be effected if not shimmed, although I am not aware of doing so in a DSM.  At the very least you would have to use some form of hardened shim, as a normal washer would just get pounded out.  What cams are they, maybe we can do some research and come up with a solution, or find out it may be hog wash.

Shawn

[Remi Raymond]

He probably has regrinds that has taken that off the base circle in order to make up for it in lift.  I am thinking the rocker ratio is going to be effected if not shimmed, although I am not aware of doing so in a DSM.  At the very least you would have to use some form of hardened shim, as a normal washer would just get pounded out.  What cams are they, maybe we can do some research and come up with a solution, or find out it may be hog wash.

Shawn

Bingo. They're regrinds.

Jordan that valve noise really drives you insane doesn't it?

[Jordan Kruger]

yup the regrinds require these shims. Its sux. But if i found a smoking deal on cams I would do it. Until then, Im going to have to shim the lifters close enough. the shims which are currently in there are washers. and they do have indentation from the impact they recieve.  they are no thicker than a dime.

[Remi Raymond]

Hmm. Wonder if you would really lose a lot going with a stock cam for now if you're worried about wear/noise.

[Shawn Silva]

And this is why folks billets are the only way to go.

I would call the grinder and ask how much was removed from the base circle so you can find out if the shims are even the correct ones.  At least attempt to replace the current washers with hardened ones, unless the grinder can supply you with something better.  I still think it's a band aid fix.

Shawn

[Jordan Kruger]

if gapped correctly its not a band aid at all.   it would run perfectly fine. the majority of the lifters are gapped fine and are quiet.    its a select few that have a gap and make noise. Ill let everyone know how this turns out tommorrow when i pop the cover off and gap everything.

[Brett Haviland]

ahhh  disadvantage of a re-grind?  i think so.

never realized that re-grinds required this... nor has anyone else posted this information on shimming the lifters!

Usually shimming lifters is only required with solid ones.

THis also brings up a recent topic i had with doug.  He installed re-ground valves and new cut seats in the head he installed a while back.  After putting it together is was down compression on 1 cylinder till the engine warmed up.  Turned out that the valve was staying open a bit because the installed hieght of the valve was over what stock calls for i guess and there was too little clearance and it was bottoming out the lifter.  He ended up fixing the problem by machining a bit off the bottom of the affected lifters..  I guess the proper way to do it is to grind a bit off the top of the valve tho and get the valve installed height back within factory specs.

A good little bit of info for the forum!

[Jordan Kruger]

Yea. Anytime you get a reground cam you must also know the amount of material that has now been removed. I thought the lash adjusters would have enough play that there would be no problem like that. Ive also been informed by Geoff at colt cams that when sizing a shim for the base of the lifter, to match the outside diameter of the smaller circle at the bottom of the lifter. If you look closely, the lifter tapers and apparently some of the openings in the head for the lifters do the same taper. So match the small circle on the base of the lifter with the proper width of (hardened washer). Ive also been informed by Geoff that radio shack has hardened assorted washers.... lol    who knew.

[John Hartman]

not all regrinds require shims.  If you start off with a bigger cam(ie the "C" and "D" 92 turbo 5spd cams) you can net bigger cams with less off the base circle.

In fact, most 4g63 regrinds do not require shims.  Only the bigger stuff really.

And the ones that do, its not a problem with them.  Its not a reliability issue or a drivability issue, or any other issue.  Pull the lifters out when the cam is out, drop the correct shim in and put the lifters back in.  Then put the cams back in as per normal.

I would contact Jeff at Colt cams and give him the specs on the cams and he will be able to provide you with the correct shims for the cams.  Like Jordan is saying.

[Cole MacDonald]

I'm not running shims in my red FWD with the HKS regrinds. One lifter ticks when its cold then goes away after it warms up which leads me to believe that I have a shitty lifter in there somewhere.

[Remi Raymond]

The cams in Jordan's talon are hks 272 regrinds afaik.
I also know he just replaced his lifters, and still gets the tick on one (maybe 2?) valves

[Brett Haviland]

keep us updated if shimming helped.

[Jordan Kruger]

I will. Hope I can find what I need from radio shack  lol