Author Topic: Documentation of the whole bodyshop repair process  (Read 1904 times)

patrickWoo

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Documentation of the whole bodyshop repair process
« on: February 14, 2009, 01:44:58 am »
BCDSM shalt be thy witness.

It all started fine and pretty and it worked routinely like clockwork - that's so cliche I shall scratch that and say it actually worked like a Camry - except with lots of power and 4WD for a few good merry months. Hong Kong was great but it is the open roads in BC where you can really unleash the kind of built-in shenanigan Mitsubishi had in mind when they first penned this thing.



Very classy very comfortable with very plush interior as you'd come to expect from cars manufactured during the "bubble period" of Japanese automobiles (circa 1988 - 1996). Complete with creature comfort and performance packaged in a way you can hardly match in its entirely in a car priced under 50K today. Telescopic and tilt steering adjustment, fully automatic climate control, factory remote door lock and power package, full leather interior, 9 way adjustable front seats (fore/aft/lumbar/cushion front/cushion rear/headrest up/down/fore/aft), just to name a few, are mated with an overly athletic 240bhp V6 twin turbo power plant. It is a gentleman's car, but with a distaste of the norm and the common. Its poise inspires confidence, but it also intimidates the driver by its sheer ability. "Push me harder," is what it is saying, as the distinct twin turbo sound whizzes up with your heel-toe downshift, when you crank the wheel it puts its face right up to your nose, closer than you are ever comfortable with, "see if you run out of guts first or I run out of grip first. I dare you, I double dare you".

You picture the line you want to ride on in this curve, it leans a bit and suddenly you feel that you are turning more than you intend to even at blazing speeds with the tires just screeching away. It does not handle like those scary oversteering types but the rear seems to have a mind of its own and crank in just a few minutes of a degree to turn the car into the corner just that much harder, there is certainly more slip angle than you would anticipate in a front wheel biased AWD car but at this whole time the car is talking to you. More precisely, you and your car are having a corner-long team cuddle-up talk. It has so many vital players in the chassis that you must inform each of them as to what you want to do in a split second and they must do it immediately to come out of the corner exit victorious. Now that feels like accomplishment to me.

Every day was a prefect day for motoring in this car, it braced snow and ice, wind and rain (FACT: I drove through strength #8 hurricane in Hong Kong in it, overtaking stalled BMWs, public buses and expensive metals that just crapped out from the massive rain and puddles) , it did not even flinch to the slippiest of surfaces. It is using all of Mitsubishi's bleeding-edge technology back then to carry its proud 11th owner exactly where he wanted to be exactly when he needed to be. Once in a while it likes to test your nerves a bit by throwing you into a wide oversteer - but then it would gracefully recover itself, as if it is laughing hysterically and, fingers pointing in your face, say "I gotcha there man! HAHAHA"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RlBlbzVQh7s
It would do this if you brake and steer at the exactly right moment at the right amount, and come out of the corner as though nothing really happened, it would do this without ever spilling the tofu in the trunk.....Yes you can do this in dry pavement if you have balls of steel, the car will do it as if this was what it was designed to do.

There is something I just can't put MY finger at but you don't so much pilot the car as you are there to interrogate its ability. And its personality is so complex, that I feel like I am in the interrogation room with the Joker here: You'll never expect its next move. Yet that is what makes the whole action of tricking it into doing things you want it to do - sometimes things it is not designed to do - so interesting. If a well sorted car is Tetris, the Galant VR-4 is Grand Theft Auto.

Disaster strikes hardest in the best of times.



Just days after I chatted with the local bodyshop about how I plan to do a "complete" to it to make it look as good as it drives, some Eastern Asian folk (oh fuck this isn't a political forum - some fucking Indians who lost their magic carpet) decided that they would make a left turn without making sure that no one is coming their way. I reacted with all my years of experience at the autoX and the track days - I had 3 choices, 1, run straight like what the driver's education says you should, risking to T-bone her vehicle at the passenger side door at 60km/h minus braking speed, 2 swerve around like a mad man, avoiding her car and wrap my car around the light pole on the other side of the intersection, or 3 swerve and stop very precisely so she T-bones me at maybe 10km/h and I come to a controlled stop at the farthest right lane just stopping beside the curb. I did what I did and we all managed to walk out of this. I managed to stay in control with no small part thanks to the factory ABS system and the just renewed suspension components on the car that allowed the knife-sharp precision manuver to be realised with as little drama as possible.

Guess what? That other driver was an N and she was driving 2 of her friends - that is an INSTANT FAIL.

So ICBC is getting my car fixed. This thread is going to document how the epic repairs unfold.
« Last Edit: February 14, 2009, 02:06:34 am by patrickWoo »

Offline Zach Holt

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Re: Documentation of the whole bodyshop repair process
« Reply #1 on: February 14, 2009, 02:00:29 am »
congrats :) I know a good shop if your lookin.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitsubishi
Then google.
Then read old postings about it.
Then ask.

patrickWoo

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Re: Documentation of the whole bodyshop repair process
« Reply #2 on: February 14, 2009, 02:28:54 am »
So the epic repairs cannot be done without some parts collecting: Where do you get JDM parts you ask? From a USDM car of course! Had I not been doing research into parts availability and imported something more JDM specific (read: FTO), I would have been screwed without a single doubt. Luckily, the USDM Galant 7G (1994-1998) shares the same bodystyle as my Galant VR-4. And without waiting for any delays, a spare left side of the car is sourced from Ralph's auto in Surrey:




Complete rocker panel from A to C pillar, complete B pillar and parts of the roof rail is included in this bit.
Doors and left fender are also sourced for this repair work, as appointed by ICBC.

The chassis will need to be pulled by a chassis alignment machine. Hopefully I can catch a picture of that in the near future.
Also since the car is in the bodyshop right now. It is as good a time as ever to do a "complete" respray of the bodywork. I decided to stay grey as mismatched door jambs and trunk openings are stupidly gay and so 1990s. The factory grey, however, is quite un-convincing even if it is restored to its brand new conditions. Therefore with some fiddling with paint chips and codes, I have chosen this as the final color for the whole car:


A 2006 color. I brought the paint chip of the original grey and this new color under the sun. Other than how the metallic is accentuated in the bright light, this is a complete match to the original color. In this case, when the car is painted this color, the door jambs, trunk opening and the hood will look color matched, but the grey will positively pop when seen in bright light conditions. The highly reflective metallic layer on the paint also accentuate the curvy body very much as it reflects shapes of its surroundings on its paint surface.

Next up is a set of really nice clear corner lights:

As a responsible road user of BC, I refuse to install non DOT RHD headlights onto the car as it is certainly not a good idea for oncoming traffic. These headlights are DOT approved, generally factory specced except the orange reflector is left uninstalled. These headlights will replace the leaky, foggy and tired headlights that are on the car right now.

Will update when I see the car again with doors removed and wheels sent out for refinishing. Until then!
« Last Edit: February 14, 2009, 02:33:58 am by patrickWoo »

patrickWoo

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Re: Documentation of the whole bodyshop repair process
« Reply #3 on: February 18, 2009, 11:48:25 pm »
I don't know how ICBC does their thing but I got hilarious story to tell. So there was no good explanation why a Galant (USDM models are worth honest 2000 dollars at best) is not totalled after being assessed to have suffered $4400 damage. Bodyshop man told me how they totally messed it up in their system.

First of all, there was no 1993 Mitsubishi Galant in the ICBC system. Hence when I imported they can't figure out a way to classify the damned car. They put on a "temporary" model for the car, sent me back home telling me that eventually a "correct" registration paper will come.

Ok so that came, it all looked good I had the correct VIN and the correct car name on the registration paper. But little did I know that they decided to just stick my car into the "Pajero" group in their VIC system.

That's not a real issue until I got into the accident. So when they pull up my car from the system, it's assessed as a Mitsubishi Pajero. Them Pajeros are worth a lot of money (don't ask me why) and therefore the ICBC repair system never bothered to warn the adjuster that the repair bill is getting close to the car's value the whole way.

That flew but when the 2nd inspection came to check the underlying damage from under those mangled doors, the Vancouver adjuster was furious at the Richmond adjuster when he saw the car - because the car is not even the car that was listed in the repair clearance paper.

The bodyman said the Vancouver adjuster totally bitched out on the Richmond adjuster...... and hours later the Richmond adjuster called and wanted me to provide some "proof of value" of the car otherwise it'll be totalled (and from what I guessed, his job is on the line too....) LOL. So in order to keep this kind hearted adjuster on the job, I'm on a mission to find out how much my car is worth in Canada.

But as you should know by now, I imported it 60% of the reason that this is so fucking rare. There isn't another one already registered in Canada. But I'm going to have to work out some way to do this. I got Tyee Imports and Import Concerns to get me quotes as to how much is it to import this car again from Japan, hopefully then I go from there.

I don't know how it got this messed up but I came to post some pics and pics are here.



I don't see what the big fuss is that the bodyshop wants ANOTHER $1500 for the repair work? The A pillar and the rear wheel arch looks pretty salvageable the bending made the kicker panel come clean off the welds.... But oh well. Now I need to prove that the car is worth more than $6100 at least or it's going to the junker.

My rationale is that the previous generation was
http://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/cto/1032436789.html
$5500USD so mine should easily cost more than that just coz it's a newer and faster version..... Other than that I'm just going to have to ask importers to give me some paperwork and I file my big folder of receipts....

Offline Drew Sale

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Re: Documentation of the whole bodyshop repair process
« Reply #4 on: February 19, 2009, 04:39:39 am »
did you sign anything after they said they were going to repair it? i wouldn't tell them anything or say anything to them until you consult a lawyer. you dont have to pay for the lawyer, just tell them what happened and see if there's a way to force ICBC to pay for the whole thing because they said they would. is there a piece of paper from ICBC saying that they are going to pay for the whole repair? if so, you 99% have yourself a solid case that could coule take to court. i'd talk to a lawyer before you do anything at all
I dont care what anyone says about my car. It only had 1 error code.

patrickWoo

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Re: Documentation of the whole bodyshop repair process
« Reply #5 on: February 23, 2009, 08:46:56 am »
There's no need to bring this matter to court they were simply unable to determine the pricing of the car....

I brought forth the prices of 6th generation Galant VR4s and told them that my version is the updated version of the same car, and then they reappraised the car to 7300 and work continues on it.

I can't wait I talked to the bodyshop too I'll get a full respray it'll look mint.

patrickWoo

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Re: Documentation of the whole bodyshop repair process
« Reply #6 on: March 06, 2009, 12:57:27 pm »

This is just before the body man processes the rocker panel. This panel then gets sandblasted and treated with rust mort for ultimate corrosion resistance (I saw him do it, afterwards). Mitsubishi tried hard to reduce weight, just look at those holes inside the rocker panel. The holes are also reinforced by the step around them.

This is the quarter panel after the rocket panel is removed from the car. There is a rust hole in the wheel well that's getting some welding love soon. There's the identical panel outside the shop he'll cut out and replace the rusted area with.

This is the A pillar bottom area where the rocker panel mates to the car. The floor had been pushed in a bit around the B pillar but the body man Andy has got it perfectly straight with his mad hamm0rz skillz.

This is the chassis of the car with the B pillar cut out and the floor straightened. It's not too rotten inside which is a relief.

Jamie Oswald

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Re: Documentation of the whole bodyshop repair process
« Reply #7 on: March 06, 2009, 11:14:54 pm »
so does each one of them stickers give you 25hp or what? lol...
Thats alot of work...surprised they didnt write her off.

patrickWoo

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Re: Documentation of the whole bodyshop repair process
« Reply #8 on: March 07, 2009, 07:55:40 pm »
anime stickers give you anime abilities. Watch me drop a wheel in the ditch when taking a turn!!!!  :P

VR4s are rare enough to cost a pretty penny. Even the generation before mine, so my car is worth a small fortune in US/Canada market.

patrickWoo

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Re: Documentation of the whole bodyshop repair process
« Reply #9 on: March 11, 2009, 07:53:22 pm »
New Progress:

This part is made in Normal, IL....The rest of the car made in Japan ROFL.

spot welded the door frames ftw.



SL63AMG came next stall. Soooo sweeet

218,000CDN?

8 cylinders for some ultimate chick magnetism.
« Last Edit: March 11, 2009, 07:55:12 pm by patrickWoo »

Offline Jason Harwood

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Re: Documentation of the whole bodyshop repair process
« Reply #10 on: March 13, 2009, 07:16:55 am »
159,000 of pure sex!
88' MX6 Turbo - 14.2 @ 97.51MPH
94' MX6 V6 - 13.9 @ 96.7MPH
93' Civic Turbo - 14.7 @ 90MPH (bad tune)
90' Civic SI - Auto-X Machine
97' Eclipse GSX 13.6 @ 105MPH
96' Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo
97' Acura EL 14.5 @ 98MPH
'02 Lexus IS300 15.125 @ 91MPH
97' CR-V Winter Beater.
04' WRB WRX STI

patrickWoo

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Re: Documentation of the whole bodyshop repair process
« Reply #11 on: March 17, 2009, 09:50:58 am »
Diaper mod put ON!

Diaper on the crashed side

Sick wheels I scored on RS. Will be painted gold professionally

Headlight bucket replaced at n/c. Old one was torn from the chassis shearing from the Don't Touch Me coilovers

Unsightly dent on the roof repaired to perfection.

Offline Michel Paiement

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Re: Documentation of the whole bodyshop repair process
« Reply #12 on: March 17, 2009, 10:22:03 am »
fuck this is why i don't like to buy cars with damage over $2,000. Looks like everything is getting fixed properly, really nice that they are allowing you to take pictures of there work... but would bother me personally to own a car what has been chopped up.

Offline Mike Schmid

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Re: Documentation of the whole bodyshop repair process
« Reply #13 on: March 17, 2009, 12:59:13 pm »
Properly repaired it should be good as new, in some cases even better. 

If you think about it, any good muscle car or classic is going to have that much or more sheet metal work on it.  Before someone says it's different because muscle cars and classics aren't unibody, a number of them are.  Camaros, Novas, Mustangs, Challengers, Cudas are all unibody.  Many people don't hesitate to drop six figures on them too.
DSMs - fun when they run

'92 TSi AWD AT - 180bhp
'93 TSi AWD - 195bhp
'90 Laser RS NT - *sold*
'71 Camaro - *sold*

patrickWoo

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Re: Documentation of the whole bodyshop repair process
« Reply #14 on: March 17, 2009, 06:35:28 pm »
yeah this job actually got rid of all the spots that had rust starting on it. Welded to hmmmm hmmm hmm perfection.

Also $2000 is nothing in bodywork, when someone barely pushed  the trunk of my Mercedes (C220, not the current one) the repairs was $4700...The trunk operation wasn't even affected. Only a slow push from behind from an old Protege was $4700 damage.