Spark and Distributor Question

[Chad Giffen]

Ok guys as some of you may know I also have a blue 1.8L which looks exactly like my Blue Turbo Talon.

Well before I decided to work on it, it had leaky valve seals. So I got a new rebuilt cylinder head and all new gaskets etc and put them on. The car was running before I did this.

Now everything is back together and the car wont start. I've checked the compression and it was 100-110-105-112 I think. (well around there). Now this is below service limit. I did fire oil in the cylinders and the compression jumped to 180psi. Yes yes worn rings I know. But as far as Im concerned the damn thing should still start up. This is merely my back up car.

Now for a while, I lost interest in the whole thing. Recently, I remebered I had just shoved the distributor back in without even thinking. So I went back today and turns out the rotor wasnt lined up to the #1 cylinder.

I timed the engine to the distributor. To confirm this, I pulled the #1 spark plug with the wire still attached....   Watched the cam shaft timing mark....   turned the engine over manually with the coil on and watched the spark ignite about 5 degress before TDC. Now the thing that may be causing this whole thing is that I would not get a spark just by holding the plug in the wire in mid-air. I had to put the plug close to the aluminum valve cover in order to see a spark.

Is this normal? Is the spark not strong enough? I need some insight on this cause the damn thing still wont start.

I know it getting fuel..  I can smell it. I know the timing is right because I would have never got 180psi when I fired oil in the cylinders if it wasnt.

It has to be spark or the compression is just to damn low. But It should still start even with that low compression if if it runs like a bag of shit.

[Chad Giffen]

By the way...    I get to use that shop any weekend I want. Damn I love my job in Mechanical Engineering and I love that the owner of the company I work for is such a cool guy.

[Wade Carlson]

sorry I know this is completely off topic but I've never seen the 1.8l in the engine bay before and it just looks wrong

[Dan Harshey]

it is normal to have to ground the plug out in order to see a spark

[Dave Ingraham]

Is it just the pics or are there 2 cylinders that have melted pistons?  You need to check and see if the injectors are firing.  It sounds like the plugs are firing.

[Matt Demick]

Is it just the pics or are there 2 cylinders that have melted pistons?  You need to check and see if the injectors are firing.  It sounds like the plugs are firing.

yea 1 and 3 look fubar'd

[Chad Giffen]

lol...   yea the piston rings have suffered, but it is still getting all over 100psi compression! And yes my injectors are firing, I can smell fuel when I crank.

[Dave Ingraham]

The compression maybe to low.  Make sure it has the right plug gap.  Did you turn the distributor while cranking?  You could of had it to advanced or retarded.  With the low comperssion it may not start with to much advance.

[Chad Giffen]

Ya I tried in all different positions. Its a no go. I think im just fucked. Question is do I really want the hassle of a stock rebuild on the botom end?  Everything else is ok on this car. Well, I prolly wont waste my time. Blastfomy!!

[Dave Ingraham]

I've had a DSM for six months and its been nothing but a hassel.  Just when you fix one thing something else goes.  My GF got a civic and I can run the bag off that thing and it keeps coming back for more.  My talon one lap around the block and have to spend a weekend wrenching on it.
Good luck with your car.

[Mike Schmid]

It's perfectly normal to get no spark when you just hold the plug in the air, it's not a complete circuit.  The plug grounds through the washer and threads into the head normally, You need to hold it against a ground (bare valve cover, head, whatever) to get a spark.

[John Hartman]

100ish psi should fire up. 

Set it to top dead center at the cam timing marks and crank "T" mark.  The rotor should be pointing at number one tower on the dizzy.  If these three things are lined up, you have spark, you have compression and you have sufficient fuel in an atomized form, it should run.  Now having fuel and having it atomized and in the correct ratio are not the same.  Once you get it timed(valve and spark), make sure you have good fuel pressure(guage) and flow(enough coming out the return line on cranking)

[Chad Giffen]

Well i do know 100% sure the timing is fine and the distributer is timed to the spark. I checked manully as I said. Guess I'll just have to f with it more.