This years new setup...

[Matt Demick]

Well now i have finished everything on my car minus the Transmission wich is waiting for 2 parts to arrive at Mitsu.

1990 Eagle Talon 4G63 Turbo AWD
•   JDM Motor.  (30,000kms on it from new)
•   Fresh AWD Tranny Rebuild
•   16G/20G Evo hybrid turbo
•   MBC
•   255hp Walbro fuel pump
•   680 injectors
•   Aftermarket EVO Fuel Rail
•   Magnus Style Intake manifold
•   264 Web cams
•   2.5” exhaust w/ O2 eliminator
•   SS Header
•   Tial 38mm external waste gate
•   18” Konig Profit Rims
•   Rear Camber Kit
•   SAFC II ( Tuned my Lowell Foo )
•   Shift Light
•   Auto Meter Boost Gauge (Phantom series)
•   Auto Meter Air Fuel Gauge (Phantom series)
•   Auto Meter EGT Gauge
•   Reverse Glow Gauges
•   Greedy Turbo Timer
•   Polyurethane Motor Mounts
•   Extreme Imports Front Mount Intercooler
•   Kinetic J Pipe
•   Tial BOV
•   Taylor Wires
•   Taylor Battery box in rear
•   NTK Platinum plugs
•   Test pipe
•   1G DSM Logger
•   2G TB Elbow
•   3” GM MAS
•   MAS Translator
•   ACT 2600
•   FIDANZA FLYWHEEL
•   FIDANZA SHIFTER
•   Stealth 2piston calipers
•   Stealth cross drilled/slotted Rotors  
•   JVC Deck

I'm probly forgetting something here but theres a start lol

[Scott Girvin]

Looks good Demick....thats one hell of a strut bar.

[John Hartman]

I agree, looks very nice  

Do you have an outside kill switch for the battery?  If not, you can't race at Mission.

[Matt Demick]

look right below the key hole in the rear hatch  :wink:  . I  can't wait to drive her again

[Mike Schmid]

Looks good.  How'd you hook the switch up for the battery kill?

[Matt Demick]

the switch interupts the ground to battery connection. just drilled some holes, grommited them and ran my wires

[Mike Schmid]

I think the rules specify you must cut the positive and it should kill the engine.  It's not a great system tho because it can create a voltage spike and wreck electronics when you shut it off.  Or the alternator just keeps it running which is also no good.  

I haven't decided how to do mine yet.  I might just not race it, unless I can figure out how they are about it on street legal nights.  If they're lax about the switch then good enough, I'll never actually race the car anyways, it'll only ever see street legals nights.

[Jared Grant]

the intake manifold, whos it made by? never seen square runners b4 or a compleltly square plenum, i thought they are shaped the way they are so the last cylender doesnt lean out?

[Calvin Ng]

NICE SET UP MATT

Hey john, regarding to you post, do you need a cutoff switch if you run higher than 11's?

[Matt Demick]

Thanx Calvin. Oh i now got a 1990 e prom on the way finally too!!!

[Mike Schmid]

I have a street car that I occasionally run at the strip. I've relocated the battery to the rear. What else do I need?

Any car with a relocated battery must be equipped with a master electrical cutoff, capable of stopping all electrical functions including ignition (must shut the engine off, as well as fuel pumps, etc.). The switch must be located on the rear of the vehicle, with the "off" position clearly marked. If the switch is of a "push / pull" type, then "push" must be the motion that shuts off the switch, and plastic or "keyed" typed switches are prohibited. Also, the battery must be completely sealed from the driver and/or driver compartment. This means a metal bulkhead must separate the trunk from the driver compartment, or the battery must be located in a sealed, metal box constructed of minimum .024 inch steel or .032 inch aluminum, or in an NHRA accepted plastic box. In cars with a conventional trunk, metal can simply be installed behind the rear seat and under the package tray to effectively seal the battery off from the driver. In a hatchback type vehicle the battery box is usually the easiest solution, since the alternative is to fabricate a bulkhead which seals to the hatch when closed. At present, Moroso is the only company which offers an NHRA accepted plastic battery box, part number 74050.

But I drive on the street. I don't want a big cut off switch hanging on the back.

This solution takes a little work, but it solves the problem. Install the master cutoff inside the vehicle, positioned "sideways" so that the toggle moves forward and back. Drill a hole in the toggle handle, and attach a steel rod that will run out the back of the car, through a hole drilled completely through one tail light assembly. Have a spare tail light assembly on hand, so when you come home from the drags, you remove the rod and put the cherry tail light back in for street cruising. Next time you plan on going to the drag strip, swap lights and reinstall the rod. Since the drilled light is for the strip only, you can also have it marked "PUSH OFF" in big letters so the Tech Inspectors will think you're cool.

From: http://www.nhra.com/contacts/tech_faq.html

[Matt Demick]

could just wire it to turn off the fuel pump

[Calvin Ng]

does that mean DSM LINK matt? what if you have a cut off switch to the fuel pump inside the car? do you still need the battery cut off?

[Martin Raska]

But that wouldn't be legal Matt...

Run without a alternator belt at the track and it will stop that from powering things and maybe give you an extra horsepower.  Alternatively it takes some length of wiring to wire it up accordinly, but you could small gauge wire to a relay that would cut things off when the master switch was activated.  I haven't read the rules, but this rule legality varies a bit in racing organizations because some things are switched through a relay still, though the relay may be hard wired to to the switch, so it can be also grey area you can 'exploit', though I wouldn't really consider it exploiting either, because the master switch does cut off its power.  It might not be a bad idea to look into some kind of transient/freewheeling voltage suppression for the spikes that might occur that Mike mentioned, though from what I've seen ECU manufacturers seem to be quite tolerant to their in their power supplies - I've only ever seen a Megasquirt blow on master switch cutoff.  You can just change the power wires position on the switch to be on the same terminal once the night is done if you want to render the switch inactive on the street.  Get a switch with a removable key if you want to take it one step further in hiding but don't want to switch lights.

[Matt Demick]

yea taking the belt off woud work. good idea. would like to make it very clean though. i will research to see what other dsmer's have done.

As for my new ecu. I got a wicked deal on her, not sure if i will dsmlink her this season but forsure next season. might just toss a chip in for the moment to get a launch limmiter in and get rid of fuel cut.