buying stuff for new talon, comment on my parts list please.

[Jesse Veitch]

kind of like a list/what I plan to do:

Greddy Type RS bov

Mild steel Greddy flange

Recirculation kit (size for 2g DSM)

2G OEM timing belt kit with balance belt and tensioner pully

2G OEM water pump + gaskets

camshaft seals

valve cover gasket set

2G AWD eibach prokit springs

3 OEM 6bolt oil filters

Forge, Perrin, or Kinetic mechanical boost controller (leaning to perrin, someone tell me otherwise?)

Cobalt series mechanical boost gauge

Cobalt 2000*F pyrometer (do I just drill and tap the exhaust mani for the thermocouple that comes with? Do I need a sending unit or anything else?)

2g a-piller 2 pod – GREY

Mach 5 throttle body seals and injector seals (just incase, and they’re cheap anyway)

BG fuel system cleaner

2g oem fuel filter

OEM crank pully

OEM drive belts.

Some kind of detergent to put in the oil and intake to clean out buildup before I switch to mobil 1, suggestions?

I also need new rubber, thinking of falken 512s, the bushings on the front camber kits are uglied (I need to see what brand it is and find out where I can get some replacements) I’m gonna do the washer mod on the back, and after I have the tires put on I’ll have an alignment done.

I’ll be changing the coolant too, I figure I’ll just stick with good ol’ green, I don’t like what I hear about dexcool.

I’m gonna send a list of these parts to Kinetic and RTM (not including the rubber) and see who gives me a better price/faster ship, I’ll also check lordco for the aftermarket parts to compare price, all of this of course after I get some advice/criticism from you folks!

p.s. can I get a shop manual through kinetic?

[Trevor Germuth]

Ok i'll see If I can help abit.

Bov, nice first item  :wink:

OEM Tbelt kit, definately. I am not so sure about removing the Balance shafts, I am pretty sure it requires a fair bit of work even after you get all the Tbelt components off. Water pump always a great idea

I cant give you personal experience with the MBC as I dont have one, but I have heard good things about Forge.

As to the cam seals+valve cover gasket set I would consider adding the crank seal. Make sure you do not overtorque the valve cover.

With the EGT gauge all you will need to do is drill/tap. The guage will come with the sender unit. Just make sure you dont get too many shavings in your manifold.  The turbo is right here.

Oil filter wise, I personally use a 2g one on my 1g just becuase the 1g filter is so much bigger it is really really close to my downpipe.


Along with that I would consider ngk plugs and wires if yours are not recently new. Seems like you know what you are doing.  Good luck and have fun.

[John Hartman]

I'd add a new crank pulley, OEM or a good aftermarket DAMPED one, and a new drive belts(alternator etc).  No use having to do this later on when the pulley seperates.

another simple, low cost but very effective boost controller is one from boostvalve.com, but the ones you list are good too.

use the big filter for oil.

and when drilling and tapping, 2 things.  do it with the engine cold but running, this way crap is blown out.  and put some thick grease on your drill and tap, this will help keep it from falling inwards. shut the engine off when you are not actually drilling and tapping so the manifold stays cold.  Maybe even drill out 90% of the hole with the engine off, just don't go thru, and have some grease on your bit.

/edit/ forgot some things, sorry.

balance shafts have to be removed, not just disconnected.  One will still be spinning and cause worse vibrations than if they are not there at all.

I second the NGK plugs and wires, and if your O2 sensor is old, get an NTK one of those too.

stay away from Dexcool, corrosive and crappy.  Stick to a good quality green coolant.  Or if you plan on hitting Mission or other racetrack, run just water and Water Wetter till the end of the season and then put in antifreeze.

For tires, another low cost but good tire is Khumos replacement for thier tried and true Ecxta 712, its called the SPX and is a good tire for the money.

[Jesse Veitch]

thanks guys, I'll get a new pully, and a front main seal I suppose aswell + drive belts, what kind of job is it to replace the main seal?

I didn't think of turning the car on when tapping, that's a good idea, I'll stick some earth magnets on the tap to hold the shavings on it, that should help also

edit in response to John's edit: I have a new o2 sensor but I'm gonna put it in my new exhaust that I plan to make. aren't there 2 sensors on 2gs? I'm totally new to the 2g.. what's the difference between the 2 sensors? also what heat on the plugs should I get? and are 2g - 1g plug wires the same? because I have some 1g NGK plug wires if they'll work..

[John Hartman]

the second O2 sensor is called a post cat sensor, as its after the cat.

as for plugs, get 1 heat range colder, EG, if you use BPR6ES,(stock plug) get a BPR7ES, or if you are honestly making 300 - 350 hp, maybe use even an 8ES plug.  Too hot a plug will contribute to excessive knock and less performance, but too cold a plug will foul more easily when driven nicely and slowly around town, and at idle.  

also make sure you gap them at least to spec, if not a tad smaller.  EG, stock is .28 - .35, set them to the lower end of that scale.  

Also, don't pull plugs out of a hot aluminum head or eventually you will pull out some head threads with the plug.  do plugs cold.

[Trevor Germuth]

Yes your 2g does have 2 o2 sensors. One before the cat in the o2 housing and the other after the cat. It is an OBDII thing so the computer can measure the efficency of the cat.

I am pretty sure after you are in there the main seal is pretty simple.  I will rethink it this afternoon and get back to you.

And no I am pretty sure the wires are not interchangeable.

[Jesse Veitch]

well I just noticed that the IC tubing on my 2g is all plastic, so that mild steel flange isn't gonna be any good, I can't weld it on.. junkpile.. someone selling a greddy type s with greddy upper and lower ic tubing for a decent price, should be pretty easy to rig up a recirc system for the type S, no?

[Gabriel Shim]

I currently use the Forge UNOS MBC and I haven't had any problems with it. It comes with an extra, stronger spring for higher boost applications.  I looks pretty as well, all chrome and shiny.  I also, use the Forge BOV vented.  That also came with 3 springs and a few shims to adjust accordingly to your boost levels.  The good thing about the Forge products, is that they can be rebuilt easily and it's a straight bolt on.

I don't have any good comments about using the BG Fuel system cleaner.  I tried it and clogged up my injetors.  Mind you, I"m not saying it is a bad product, it works too good in loosening the crap from the bottom of the fuel tank.  My other buddy tried it as well and it clogged up the fuel pump filter.