Author Topic: rod bearing  (Read 1762 times)

Offline Travis Ball

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Re: rod bearing
« Reply #15 on: February 13, 2014, 04:27:29 pm »
yeah took a quick look at it today.. I figured it was a silly question.. soo much work... Id like to rebuild it.. So i guess step one is getting that crank out and off to a machine shop? they should be able to tell me if the thing is garbage or not. If it was the source of the vibrating while under load than I can only assume its garbage. 

Offline Brett Haviland

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Re: rod bearing
« Reply #16 on: February 14, 2014, 12:05:43 am »
vibrating under load probably wouldnt have been caused by the crankshaft.  Did you ever check.change the front inner CV joints?
I like Colts.  Turbo Colts.

Offline Travis Ball

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Re: rod bearing
« Reply #17 on: February 14, 2014, 05:58:08 pm »
ha ha I guess I can't have an all in one solution :'(...  I guess Ill have an opportunity to see the cv joints now. The boots were intact but I guess you never know.  Is it better to pull the engine in these from the bottom?

Offline Brett Haviland

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Re: rod bearing
« Reply #18 on: February 17, 2014, 12:59:38 pm »
yeah the ones I seen that caused that sort of vibration all had the inner boots intact and not leaking.  the joints had just worn out from use/missuse.
I like Colts.  Turbo Colts.

Offline Travis Ball

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Re: rod bearing
« Reply #19 on: February 18, 2014, 05:52:14 pm »
numbers are in!!!


3 lobes are 1.771in
and the fucked one was 1.760

I didn't read the vernier scale...
so is .011in enough to call it fucked?

Offline Brett Haviland

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Re: rod bearing
« Reply #20 on: February 18, 2014, 06:16:00 pm »
.011 thou is a mile in engine clearance terms. Yup, she's screwed. You could cut the crank down and install oversized bearings, but this removes the hardening on the crank journals and is not really recommended if at all possible.
I like Colts.  Turbo Colts.

Offline Travis Ball

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Re: rod bearing
« Reply #21 on: February 18, 2014, 09:51:49 pm »
so.. replace the crank or the engine? I'm thinking at this point better off to just swap the engine... but If a crank could be had cheap enough I guess It would not be to difficult to install  a new crank.. I may even be able to do it in class... is there a aftermarket vendor for such a thing? or do i simply call up mitsu ?

Offline Brett Haviland

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Re: rod bearing
« Reply #22 on: February 19, 2014, 12:08:51 am »
yes, a new crank would be the easiest.  Remember that the rods big end should be checked for proper size as well.  it could have worn some when the bearing spun as the crank did. if the rods worn out it will have to be replaced as well which requires removal of the cylinder head and pulling the piston/rod out the top.  used rods/pistons/cranks can usually be had for decent price used on the forums here.  a N/A 4g63 crank will also work for you as well.  the non turbo and turbo cranks are identical.  the hyundai sonota 2.0 cranks will work as well.
I like Colts.  Turbo Colts.

Offline Travis Ball

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Re: rod bearing
« Reply #23 on: February 19, 2014, 12:40:04 am »
although the rod bearing from the best bearing cap snaps into the shitties one just a snug. there are visual signs of wear and if i run my fingers over the surface its not as smooth. (almost as if someone went at it with a really fine sand paper) so I'm guessing there my answer... I guess it could be polished if the measurements are still good?