Powerloss, Bogging, Hesitation, and Bucking...{Updated}

[Jeetinder Ghataurah]

I'll do a WOT run(or as good as the car can) and check for powder, but I doubt it's coolant.

Now I just got to fidn time to get to Kinetice for a compression and a leakdown test along with a fuel filter change

BTW, would a boost leak do this? I thought boost leak = rich not lean :?

[Gabriel Shim]

BTW, would a boost leak do this? I thought boost leak = rich not lean :?

Correct me if I'm wrong, but if you have any sort of air leak, there would be more air entering your system now.  Hence, leaner.

[John Hartman]

nope, common wisdom on mass air turbo engines says that if air is counted, compressed and then leaked out afterwards, that air already has fuel injected for it.  Therefore, when the air leaks out, and the fuel stays, it runs pig rich for the time that the leak is active.

[Jeetinder Ghataurah]

Well my 1st boost leak tester the cap leaked, the second one is good but I need a compressor since a hand pump is too weak.

I do beleive my J-pipe to turbo gasket is too worn and I'll replace that because my high idle goes crazy when the car heats up but it did go down when I tightened up my IC piping and put in the new BOV.  

But if it was my J-pipe leaking causing all of these symptoms, wouldn't the symptoms go away when the car isn't hot?

What I'll do is change that gasket, swap CATs since mine is probably clogged causing me to fail Aircare with high HC, and do a fuel filter swap.  

For the fuel filter swap all I need is 18mm for the top and a 14mm flared the bottom right?  And I tried looking but what do I do to prevent the gas from spraying out? I heard to disconnect the fuel pump and start the car till it runs out but I'm not sure if that's ok.  I just want to minimize the gas leakage.

[John Hartman]

for the filter, just crack it until fuel just starts to slightly come out, then let it bleed off the pressure that way.  Put rags under and around it.

tip:  don't loosen off the bolts that hold the filter in place till you crack loose the line nuts.

[Rob Armstrong]

Just take it off and let fuel spray out and change it...basic shit getting to it is the fun part :laugh:

[Jeff Armstrong]

I disconnected my fuel pump and let the car run until it stalled.  Minimal gas leakage when changing the filter.  Then again, I changed my plug wires when my car had the same symptoms as yours... I guess you want to get your hands dirty first??

[Jeetinder Ghataurah]

Well I aldready changed my plugs and I figured my fuel filter needs to be changed since the car was sitting in the junkyard for a while.

Napa OEM wires are like $35, NGK ones are like $100

[Jeetinder Ghataurah]

Okay, here's an update.  The car was high idleing at 2000rpm, then I put the clutch to the floor to shift into gear at parking lot speeds then a CEL pops up.  At the Revscene meet Derek was kind enough to scan my car for me once again.

 The first time it was the second 02 sensor (I'll be swapping CATs in a day or two, I failed Aircare due to high HC).
 At the Revscene meet Derek pulled a P0107 which is a Fuel Trim Malfunction.  On the way home a CEL poped up again

The service manual lists the following items to check for w/p0170

Volume air flow sensor output frequency
injector
fuel pressure
intake air leaks
engine coolant temp sensor
intake air temp sensor
barometric pressure sensor
o2 sensor
exhaust manifold cracks


Funny thing is that today my car was high idleing during a parts run and when I restarted the car the CEL went away :?

Wires and fuel filter will be installed in a few days along with a boost leak and Compression test.

[Jeetinder Ghataurah]

Well I put in a new fuel filter and that did very little.

Then I regapped the NGK BPR6ES to .28 with a wire gauge (I used a stupid ramp gauge last time)

Before swapping to some new platinum NGK BPR6EG I decided to put my new MSD Super Conducting wires in and I went for a spin...yes, no more bucking, hesitation and crap like that.

Now time to fix that damn boost leak