Issues: 1G AWD Ground Control w/ 2G Koni

[CamWeiss]

Hey Guys

So I'm putting this up as a thread for other people's information and to get input on how to best (or being a dsm'er, cheaply) get this solved.

I've been running a Ground Control setup on my 1G for a few years, with Konis up front and KYB AGX in the rear.
The KYB's, being relatively crap, are now on their way out as one has lost its' fun juice from the inside.

It's relatively well known that you can bolt up 2G rear Konis to the 1G, but as it turns out in this case it's not entirely without issue.



The biggest problem is that the perch for the 2G is both higher and smaller than the 1G. Not a big deal if you're just running lowering springs, but with the Ground Control sleeves it leaves nowhere for them to sit properly.




On the old KYB's the GC adjuster fit onto this flange:



There's no such thing on the Koni! Their mounting for the perch is a machined groove into the housing with an internal snap ring that allows their perch (or a sleeve specific to that diameter) rest on it.



I will either have to contact Ground Control and get their 2G sleeve to fit the new Koni properly, or get some machine work done to cut a new, lower groove into the Koni body and have an adapter made up. The Koni body is 42mm, and the ID of the GC sleeve at the bottom is 55mm.

I could have a machine shop cut a new groove into the Koni at the correct height and have a spacer machined to sit on the snap ring, with the 42mm Koni ID and the 55mm GC OD. This may well prove to be the cheapest option but I have to hear back from Ground Control first to see if they'll sell me just the rear sleeves and what the cost will be.

The other obvious issue is that the old KYB had a mount on it for the brake line, and the Koni doesn't.



I might see if I can't remove them without destroying them and tack them on to the Koni body... Either that or find a way to mount the bracket with a band clamp. Ideas on this one, anyone?

[CamWeiss]

mm'kay, so I think this is what I'll do:



Those grooves you can see in the Koni are what holds the perch. To correct the height issue I'll have a third one machined @ 45mm below the existing lowest one. That actually sets me lower than what the previous height was before, but I was at the bottom of the coilover sleeve. Yay, more adjustability.

I'll see if I can get a spacer (probably aluminum) machined to sit on the new lower groove... Illustration below.
I might also try and get some PVC or something similar to create a sleeve around the top of the coilover sleeve - The old KYB just had a big o-ring to help support the sleeve and dampen vibration. I'll have to either find a thicker o-ring or put a sleeve in to get the right ID.




So... is my midnight brain missing anything critical here?

[Brett Haviland]

I don't think it's a good idea to "tack" the brake line brakets to the shock body. They usually do any welding before the gas/oil charge is put in. Could be dangerous or damage the shock. Best bet is to make a "strap" style bracket that wraps arounf the shock.

Seems like the spacer option will work good, I have seen similar setups. With coil overs

[CamWeiss]

Well, I've decided to do it the 'right' way rather than adapt the 1g sleeves.
GC is only charging me $60 for the 2G rear sleeves and that will be cheaper than getting a machine shop to turn out some sleeves/spacers.
Dropped off the shocks today to get new grooves cut in.

I agree with the welding - It's dangerous for the shock. I'm thinking a simple stand off attached with a T bolt clamp will be good enough.

I'm on the hunt for some used/local helper springs and couplers... GC was going to charge way too much for them. You know, since it's all apart I'll try and remedy one of the little annoyances that I did have (being that the spring could come off its seat and bind on the way back down if the suspension went to full travel)