Engine stalls after hard breaking

[Scott Ashizawa]

This has only happened a couple of times but when I break hard and put the clutch in the car wants to stall. The rpms will go to about 600 and then come up, but a couple of times it has stalled completly.

[Rob Armstrong]

If it's not your BOV venting to atmos, my 2nd guess would be the clutch isn't fully disengauging. (ya my spelling is bad sorry) Is it hard to get it in gear?

These are only guess though :roll:

[Ryan Furnemont]

Just bump your idle up a bit. My guess is this only happens when the car is fairly hot?

Or you have a Fidanza?

If you want to keep your idle where it is, Wayne can edit your chip to implement the Lightened flywheel code, which would stop high rpm drop off stalling when clutching in.

[Scott Ashizawa]

My bov is recirculated,and my clutch is fine, no problems shifting of getting it into gear. I dont have a lightened flywheel although I may try the the flywheel code on the chip.

[John Hartman]

when the car is warmed up fully, stop, let the car stabilize and idle, air off, lights off, nothing really on or working, engine fans off, no input to the steering wheel.

does it idle at 750?

if not, set the BISSS as per the manual or VFAQ. Also check and set your timing.

if so, quickly saw at the steering wheel both directions.  The idle should initially drop a bit(less than 1 second) but then it should go up a few hundred rpm while you are working the wheel.  If it just falls a bit, your ISC is probably bad.  If it works properly, you most likely have a vac leak or similar issue

[Scott Girvin]

Could also be a TPS or speed sensor problem.

[Michael Cummings]

My car does the same thing, I always just figured it was from the blitz vented bov.

[Scott Ashizawa]

when the car is warmed up fully, stop, let the car stabilize and idle, air off, lights off, nothing really on or working, engine fans off, no input to the steering wheel.

does it idle at 750?

if not, set the BISSS as per the manual or VFAQ. Also check and set your timing.

if so, quickly saw at the steering wheel both directions.  The idle should initially drop a bit(less than 1 second) but then it should go up a few hundred rpm while you are working the wheel.  If it just falls a bit, your ISC is probably bad.  If it works properly, you most likely have a vac leak or similar issue

My idle is set to 850, no major idle surge or anything. It could be my timing, i'll have to get a light and check it. I recently tested my isc by measuring the resistance between the pins and it seems to be good. It mostly does this when its really hot out.

[John Hartman]

did you try the steering wheel test of the ISC?  or if you have air, turn it on, the idle should rise for that too.

Its probably not your timing, your ECU will compensate for it.

[Jason Mok]

it could be your mass airflow sensor or your egr.

go and get a reading at a local shop, hook up your car.

when i had my shiity mx3, happened to me, bad egr, one of 3 sensors was fucked. kept my egr totally open, thus making my car stall at low rpm.

buddy's celica. checked all his electricals, faulty massairflow. stalling if rpms are not kept a little higher than normal...automatic too lol..

just throwing possibilities out there...

[John Hartman]

could be an egr, but its not very common on these cars, for whatever reason.

if it was a maf sensor, it would likely throw a code.

[Scott Ashizawa]

It probably is the egr, I just blocked it off and then it started happening. I cant  believe I forgot about that, I installed the plate with no gaskets so it could be leaking through. I'll either put a gasket on or hook the egr back up and see if that helps any.