Author Topic: car brakes for no reason, after drive, wheel starts to smoke  (Read 768 times)

Offline Ricky Lim

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Okay I drove to work this morning. My car started to brake for no reason. There is no engine problem but there seems to be restriction in my wheel. I did not hear any squeaks when i brake.  I kept on driving and when I dont accelerate, the car slows down pretty fast and brakes and go and brakes.  When I got of the car at work, the right front wheel was smoking. Do I need new brakes? What is causing the restriction and the smoke in the wheels? And should I drive straight to a shop at work or have it towed. I hope it isnt anything serious. Do I need brake fluid or something?

Offline Michael Cummings

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car brakes for no reason, after drive, wheel starts to smoke
« Reply #1 on: July 11, 2006, 11:09:33 am »
Its possible that one of the calipers is siezed, which would mean new caliper and brake pads.
I don't think you need to tow it, it sounds safe enough to drive from either work to a shop or work to your house, and then get it fixed/looked at.
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Offline KevinBuckham

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car brakes for no reason, after drive, wheel starts to smoke
« Reply #2 on: July 11, 2006, 04:08:08 pm »
I could either be that the brake pedal is adjusted incorrectly, but since it is mostly just one wheel, I would suspect a siezed slider or lock pin.

If you aren't confident in working on your own brakes, take it to a shop.  It is normally a fairly straight forward thing to fix.  Of course brake shops are never cheap.  If it is siezed really well (*cough* Michi *cough*), it can take some convincing to remove the siezed pin.

Offline John Hartman

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car brakes for no reason, after drive, wheel starts to smoke
« Reply #3 on: July 12, 2006, 07:01:24 pm »
yep, siezed caliper or slider.

you will need new (whatever is siezed) as well as pads and turn the rotors.  replace em if they are not thick enough to turn.  This siezing is causing TONS of heat and will damage parts.

If your shop is close, drive it, but I would not go on the hiway with that.
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Offline KevinBuckham

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car brakes for no reason, after drive, wheel starts to smoke
« Reply #4 on: July 13, 2006, 09:55:49 am »
When Michi's 2G sat at L&R for a year, both of his front calipers had siezed slider and lock pins.  Two of those were next to impossible to extract.

I suspect that any 2G (and maybe 1G?) that has sat for a while will experience some siezing of the slider and lock pins.  I really don't like the stock 1G or 2G brake setup.  They work fine when well lubed and new, but are a PITA when they get older.  

When 2G brakes are working well with good pads the cars can and do stop VERY well.  If you car isn't stopping that well please inspect your calipers or have a competent brake shop check over the slider and lock pins.  I suspect that perhaps half of the 2Gs I have seen have somewhat siezed pins and have what I consider dangerous brakes.  If you can not threshold brake your car from 100 km/h to zero, your brakes aren't working properly.

With my stock brakes on my 2G I could out-brake almost every car on track with high speed courses.  I would gain almost all of my advantage with execcisve late braking and great braking G forces.  However, I gaurantee doing this will cause you some caliper issues, as while these brakes clamp just dandy, they can't deal with the thermal loads from repeated high speed braking.

So everyone, please check your brakes!  BTW, I highly recommend Porterfield R4-S for street and autox duty, and R4-E for all-out track duty.  I consider Metal Master pads marginal, and stock mostly useless. :)

Offline Ricky Lim

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car brakes for no reason, after drive, wheel starts to smoke
« Reply #5 on: July 17, 2006, 12:35:28 am »
Thanks for the info guys!! Yes I did store my car for 6 months without starting and driving it.


What are the symptons of a transmission being blown or crankshaft problem? I just dropped off my car at a friend's mechanic and he was looking at the wheel area and said it looks fine but he will look into the problem further when he gets free time.

I really hope it ain't nothing serious because I'm not expecting to pay that much money when i started driving after a 6 month storage. The engine was running great and I drove it for a while so it cant be the transmission right?

Also my friends wanted to hear my engine. It was in P and I rev it hard and high 3 times. After the 3rd time, the car died. And I started again and drove for 10 seconds and it died. Then I drove it normally for 4 days before this problem happened.

Offline Miles Frederick

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car brakes for no reason, after drive, wheel starts to smoke
« Reply #6 on: July 17, 2006, 01:51:45 am »
Quote
Also my friends wanted to hear my engine. It was in P and I rev it hard and high 3 times. After the 3rd time, the car died


Is your BOV dump plumbed back into the intake ?
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Offline Ricky Lim

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car brakes for no reason, after drive, wheel starts to smoke
« Reply #7 on: July 18, 2006, 10:36:35 pm »
Mechanic found that my tranny was bone dry and it had a leak.  The inside is damaged. :(

He quoted me $2000 for a rebuild and an install. Do you guys know any shop that can do a rebuild or have a tranny for sale and labour to install for much less?

I wasn't expecting to pay $2gs after storing my car for 6 months. I didnt take the bus for 6 month to fuckin spend that much money. I was saving up $ for my own place.

Offline John Hartman

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car brakes for no reason, after drive, wheel starts to smoke
« Reply #8 on: July 18, 2006, 10:59:43 pm »
find a good used tranny and put it in yourself?

probably about the only way you are gonna save tons off that price.
91 Eagle Talon TSi 5spd awd.  GT-12, TriFlow Cams, 850s, Tial, JIC, Jackal, sticky rubber.
86 Merkur XR4Ti 5spd, rwd, turbo, 91,381km.  Original paint, heated leather. intercooled, big VAM, Full 3" exhaust, Cossie sway bar, 16" tires.
06 Mazdaspeed6 6spd awd, DISI turbo, heated leather HIDs, Corksport, Cobb, Konig, Centric...
2018 VW Golf Alltrack turbo Tornado Red, 6mt, some free mods

Offline Andrew Scott

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car brakes for no reason, after drive, wheel starts to smoke
« Reply #9 on: July 19, 2006, 04:03:21 am »
If you want your car to better deal with thermal breaking load, new fluid well help ALOT, if you're expierencing brake fade
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Offline Rob Armstrong

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car brakes for no reason, after drive, wheel starts to smoke
« Reply #10 on: July 19, 2006, 04:11:25 am »
Quote from: "Andrew Scott"
If you want your car to better deal with thermal breaking load, new fluid well help ALOT, if you're expierencing brake fade


This is only true if the fade is from boiled/old fluid.
If your running crappy pads and they are melting allready on major heat checked rotors , new fluid won't help much.
Ask me how I know :wink:

Offline Andrew Scott

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car brakes for no reason, after drive, wheel starts to smoke
« Reply #11 on: July 19, 2006, 12:02:36 pm »
Or if you are using stock fluid

Different fluids have different boiling points. Motul race fluid will resist fade better than, say, Canadian tire or stock Mitsubishi fluid. Whether it is brand new or not.

Brake fade is caused by the fluid boiling, where the heat comes from, it doesn't matter. Brake fade doesn't come from your rotors or calipers getting hot, it's from heat transfer from these components to the fluid.

Of course if your brakes are seriously fucked up, they will create enough heat to boil any fluid. But if they are in good working order, and you are using a good pad (which, if you are at the track, I am assuming you are), then upgrading to a better fluid will resist fade.
Parked: 1989 240sx - Esso 87 octane, Superstore generic 10w30, Japanese automatic climate control, Pioneer AVIC-Z3 navagation, Tien Flex Coilovers, Poly bushings, R34 Brakes (front and rear), Cusco tri-point strut braces (front+rear), 1998 tail lights, rear+side valance, adjustable toe and camber arms, cusco sway bars, helical rear diff, Volk TE37s - For sale!
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Offline KevinBuckham

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car brakes for no reason, after drive, wheel starts to smoke
« Reply #12 on: July 19, 2006, 12:13:54 pm »
Quote from: "Andrew Scott"

Brake fade is caused by the fluid boiling, where the heat comes from, it doesn't matter. Brake fade doesn't come from your rotors or calipers getting hot, it's from heat transfer from these components to the fluid.


A mushy pedal is often caused by brake fluid that has air in it or has been past it's boiling point too many times.  Repeated boiling will decrease the subsequent boiling point as well.  In addition seepage of moisture into the fluid will decrease the boiling point.  

However brake fade without mushy brakes can be caused by pads that are beyond their operational temperature.  This is fairly easy to do with stock pads and a high temp fluid.  More serious race pads will actually indicate their effective temperature ranges.  

Most new pads will also exhibit "green fade".  This again has nothing to do with fluid boiling.

Offline Andrew Scott

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car brakes for no reason, after drive, wheel starts to smoke
« Reply #13 on: July 19, 2006, 06:41:38 pm »
Yeah, I wasn't talking about improperly bled brakes or glazed pads, I was talking about the hydrolic fluid itself getting too hot, boiled, and being able to press the pedal to the floor easily with no effect.

Too many times people buy big-ass brake kits or stainless lines or other overkill solutions, not knowing what the cause of thier problem is. Big brake kits dissapate heat better, which is the only real advantage to owning one (unles you're going with a very big change in rotor diameter, where your brake torque will increase a bit, depending on how big you go).

Like I said previously, I was assuming that your system is in good order and your pads are good.
Parked: 1989 240sx - Esso 87 octane, Superstore generic 10w30, Japanese automatic climate control, Pioneer AVIC-Z3 navagation, Tien Flex Coilovers, Poly bushings, R34 Brakes (front and rear), Cusco tri-point strut braces (front+rear), 1998 tail lights, rear+side valance, adjustable toe and camber arms, cusco sway bars, helical rear diff, Volk TE37s - For sale!
Daily: 2008 BMW M3 DCT